Meet Figlia: Wood-Fired Pizza and Bar in Astoria, Queens
An instant institution, neo-Neopolitan pizza, stellar wine, and cocktails have conquered locals and diners willing to go the distance for the perfect slice.
Astoria, Queens has been abuzz with the opening of Figlia Wood-Fired Pizza since 2022. Devoted pizza fanatics, both locals and visitors, would be wise to add this stop to your next NYC food tour.
A long and happy way home
Figlia owner, Riccardo Dardha, has been in the restaurant business for a quarter century. He has owned and managed successful restaurants up and down Manhattan’s East Side.
A long-time resident of Astoria, Queens, Riccardo has always made an effort to support local business on his days off.
After years of spending time away from home, and especially now that he and his wife are raising a daughter there, opening something for the community feels right.
The restaurant relies on local purveyors like Astoria Seafood, International Meat Market, Murray’s Cheese and Pain d’Avignon in Long Island City whenever possible.
From the earliest stages of construction, curious neighbors and would-be patrons welcomed Riccardo and his team to the neighborhood. Several staff members followed him from his last venture, a testament to his integrity as an employer, and in many cases a friend. Astoria embraced them all.
He’s pleased to be able to give back, and to and continue to foster a supportive community that is ever rarer in the city.
Figlia: What’s in a name?
Figlia (pronounced feel-ya) means “daughter” in Italian.
In the restaurant-branding business, the name is a critical step. New Yorkers have already proven they can wrap their mouths around Italian pronunciation. Sfoglia, an Upper East Side sensation has survived the decades largely on word of mouth.
In the end, Riccardo settled on Figlia. Second only to his actual daughter, the restaurant is a labor of love, a reflection his values and deeply felt appreciation for hospitality and his own Italian roots.
Cozy and Classy
Riccardo has always appreciated rustic Italian design—natural wood, low ceilings, warm light and exposed stone. Faced with a completely blank slate at Figlia, he put the cuisine in the spotlight.
He designed the space with the custom-built wood-burning pizza oven in view. A wide, white marble-topped bar seats at least 10 people comfortably. A smattering of small tables and banquettes contribute to a food-focused, intimate atmosphere.
Clean sage green walls, filmy bistro curtains, brass and clouded glass light fixtures are among the design details an aesthetic eye will certainly appreciate, but the true treat for the senses at Figlia is what’s on your plate and in your glass, and of course, the company of others.
The Perfect Pizza Crust
Riccardo dubs his pizza “neo-Napolitano,” named for Naples, Italy. Arguably the world’s undisputed pizza capital.
Unlike Rome’s flat and crispy, cracker-like crust or Chicago’s inch-thick, bready base, la pizza napolitana is known for its signature chewy, crispy consistency. It’s immensely satisfying, yet somehow light enough for customers to eat an entire pizza per person.
High quality ingredients and long fermentation times produce an airy, yet pliable crust is full of flavor that won’t weigh you down.
Perfecting the crust was a nearly two-year process. It involved studying combinations of flours, rising times, and taste-testing the city’s best pizzerias.
A Sturdy Slice
Riccardo has never wavered in this reverence to Italian cuisine. He acknowledges however that we are in New York.
Neopolitan pizza traditionally cooks at a very high heat for 90 seconds or less.
It’s just enough time to bake the crust, but main ingredients, principally fresh tomatoes and mozzarella, retain a lot of moisture. This is essential to the flavor but can be messy.
While Italians are used to eating pizza with a knife and fork, there’s nothing more iconic than a New York City slice.
Riccardo’s ultimate goal was to reproduce the flavor, and experience of crusty Napolitan pizza that could actually hold up to plentiful toppings when sliced.
The current blend includes a combination of two flours— a high-protein flour packed with gluten for chewiness and a lower-protein, softer flour for balance. 60/40. The ratios fluctuate depending on weather and humidity.
Most importantly, the dough rises for 56 hours.
The Menu
Pizzas include variations on the classic margherita. Burrata and heirloom tomatoes, garlic confit, and oregano. Smoky Speck gets a blast of brightness from fresh arugula and San Marzano tomatoes.
Figlia also makes their own pasta in-house, and tops it with premium produce and imported specialties. Bestsellers include deeply savory Amatriciana and Bolognese, chive and Calabrian red pepper aglio e olio, and radiatori with salsiccia and broccoli rabe pesto.
Appetizers and seasonal salads round out the selection.
A Wine List that Invites Curiosity
Riccardo’s penchant for quality and authenticity extends to the wine list.
Historically his Italian restaurants have always featured small, family-owned producers, several of whom he has met during their sales tours to New York City.
Riccardo is also passionate about food and wine pairing, and strives to offer the same experience for his customers. The approachable wine list comprises multiple Italian regions in addition to go-to labels like Barolo, Brunello, and Chianti.
Figlia’s global clientele expects a global selection. You’ll find delicious iterations of Marlborough, NZ Sauvingon Blanc, Central Coast Chardonnay, and robust reds like Gigondas red blend from Southern France, and Argentina Malbec.
The 40-some bottle list stays in the double-digit price range for accessibility, changes seasonally, and offers many fine wines by the glass.
The selection is suited to the cuisine and includes sparkling, rosé, red, and even some skin-contact “orange” wines. I can attest to it, as I created Figlia’s debut wine list! I’ve since left it in capable hands and still offer consultancy as needed.
For those in the beer and pizza pairing camp, you’ll find: Founders All Day IPA, Delirium Tremens, and Radeburger Pilsner, and Five Boroughs Hoppy Lager.
Come for the pizza, stay for the cocktails.
Star bartender, Luis Oaxaca, who I also featured in a piece for American Express Essentials this month (ask for his tequila twist on the espresso martini), mixes up the classics alongside signatures. He rolls out Manhattans, Old Fashioneds, and extra-dirty Martinis on heavy rotation.
Authentic Italian aperitivos built around Aperol and Campari, including the Negroni Sbagliato (which swaps out gin for Prosecco), get a lot of airtime, as well as house specialties, like the Evening Vespers, a fem, floral spin on the Vodka Martini featuring Lillet Blanc and St. Germain.
A Typical Night at Figlia
A student of film and philosophy, and a passionate scholar of Greek and Italian heritage, Riccardo’s approach embodies hospitality.
Figlia was designed as a place for serious diners to have a memorable experience, as well as for neighbors to stop by for a casual bite and a glass of wine.
In essence, everyone is welcome
An involved and encouraging owner-manager, he can usually be found at the bar or circulating the tables to welcome old and new friends.
In his words: There’s a joy and satisfaction in providing joy and satisfaction. It makes you feel good to make someone feel good/better. When someone leaves and says, “I had a wonderful experience,” whether or not they come back, I feel like I’ve done my job.
He continues. If you must make a mistake, make a mistake on the side of generosity. Err on the side of generosity. Give the benefit of the doubt when customers complain.
As far as I can tell, there isn’t much complaining.
Figlia
23-02 31st St, Queens, NY 11105
https://www.figlianyc.com
@figlianyc
TEL +1 347-730-5117
Wed-Fri: 5-10pm / Sat: 4-10pm/ Sun: 4-9pm (brunch coming soon!)
Annie, when Anne introduced me to you, I was drawn to your sense of knowledge, zeal for life, and creativity. This is so well-written and looks inside Figlia so well! I love the dishes and cocktails you highlighted, having tasted most of the menu firsthand. Well-done! Figlia is a must-do on my trips to NYC! Evening Vespers are a must! And just in case you need, the pizza travels well through airport security and home for lunch the next day. Hope to see you next time - Helen