Florence Shopping: Mani del Sud
In Oltrarno, handcrafted bowties bring the bling and a loving homage to southern style
A victim of its own grandeur, Florence attracts flocks of tourists.
The epicenter pulses around Santa Maria del Fiore, known simply as Il Duomo, for Brunelleschi’s imposing Dome, Italy’s second tallest after Saint Peter’s.
Crowds fan out in all directions from the square, overwhelming the narrow roads of the city.
It’s hard to imagine there’s peace and calm just across the Arno River in the area known as Oltrarno (lit. across the Arno).
Visitors and transplants have since discovered the charm across the bridges, but for years, Oltrarno was a purely Florentine residential and artisan area.
Leather tanners, fabric dyers, and other craftsmen gravitated toward the quarters along the Arno for much-needed access to river water.
At the height of the Renaissance, Oltrarno gained prestige with the construction of Palazzo Pitti and the noble families who relocated there.
Oltrarno teemed with botteghe (workshops). Woodworkers, goldsmiths, restorers, and leatherworkers—the craftsmanship for which Florence is renowned today— followed suit as demand for their services surged.
Oltrarno retains a heritage of artisanship and authenticity.
There’s a quiet, lived-in feeling to its neighborhoods, especially San Frediano and Santo Spirito.
Even in high season, you may find yourself alone on a small street, which is exactly how I met Raffaele Stella Brienza, the brain and heart behind Mani del Sud.
His window displays caught my eye, a glint amid the calm.
The windows are impossible to ignore, impeccably styled with the sole intention of grabbing your gaze.
Bold blue pedestals and illuminated glass cases feature bowties embossed in gold and feathers.
Hats emblazoned in bows of all sizes pose on stands suggesting whole personalities. As if their heads and bodies had come under an invisible spell, leaving only a aura of chic, the way fine fragrance lingers long after its wearer has turned the corner.
I entered gently, afraid to upset the scene of meticulously tipped hats.
A warm male voice greeted me from the back of the shop.
“Entra, entra, Come in, come in.” He gestured for me to join him. “We were just going to have a coffee, can I offer you one?”
I accepted and sat down at a table piled high with scrolls of drafting paper and boxes of adornments.
A pretty young woman rose and introduced herself as Fiorenza. She’s worked Raffaele for a few years. Both hail from Potenza, in Basilicata, one of Italy’s southernmost regions, often overlooked by neighboring Puglia, Campania, and Calabria.
I explained my Florence project—behind the scenes with real Florentines, or in Raffaele’s case, adopted ones.
Raffaele arrived thirty-three years ago to study, first philosophy, and later design at Polimoda. He fell in love with the artistry and creativity all around him, and now happily calls Florence his second home.
I ask him what is so inspiring about the city.
“Florence is a city of inexhaustible beauty. It offers multitudes of aesthetic experiences. Dimensionally, it’s easy to get around, which allows you to take in so much in a single day.”
Early on in his career, Raffaele shifted his focus from clothing to il décor, handcrafted accessories.
He launched his own brand, Mani del Sud, in 2013, initially dedicated to bowties, which he fashioned together with his mother.
Mani del Sud translates literally as “hands from the south” or “southern hands.”
The concept embodies the skill and authenticity Raffaele associates with his southern roots.
“When I think of the hands of my ancestors, it’s more than a farmer with dirt beneath his nails, but also the aging skin of an expert seamstress sewing, or [a grandmother] cooking. There’s wisdom in those hands—they transmit the wisdom of experience.”
The bowtie represents an infinite and indissoluble bond—between the past the present, as well as the tradition and craftsmanship of southern Italy and Florence’s vibrant, innovative community.
In a 2015 interview, he describes an original inspiration, deeply rooted in memory.
“I pictured a farmer choosing a suit for his daughter’s wedding. How does he make it distinctive, to commemorate the occasion?
He fashions a bowtie and this a simple, yet whimsical accessory takes on a new and joyful significance. The bowtie becomes a part of his everyday wardrobe, indispensable as a hat or belt.”
The Future is Tomorrow’s Present
“So why not revive a tradition of fine craftsmanship, why leave it in the past?”
The simplicity of the bowtie reminds Raffaele of his own past.
“We made our first bows with simple cotton strands, typical of trouser lining. The idea was to recover the artisanship without wasting a shred.”
The collection continues to evolve, employing feathers, stones, and embroidery. Each one crafted by hand.
Raffaele’s bows remain his signature creation, but Mani del Sud now produces hats, scarves, and shirts in fine fabrics meant to be adorned.
The heart of the brand lies in timeless elegance, unostentatious individuality.
Who’s Your Client?
“I’d like to think that anyone can wear my bowties as well as my other designs. These are absolutely unprejudiced accessories!”
Mani del Sud
Via del Campuccio, 33/R
SITO| @manidelsud_official
TEL +39 347 86 35 737