Fall in Love with Fall in 3 Recipes

Pecorino, Pears, Porcini, and Proverbs + an October recap

Issue #13

Hearts and Stomachs

In case you were wondering, the proverb, “the way to a man’s heart is through his stomach” appears to enter American popular parlance with a 19th-century novel called Ruth Hall.

The fictionalized memoir by Fanny Fern (the nom de plume of columnist Sara Payson Willis) recounts a young widow’s struggle to support herself and her three daughters in a patriarchal society.

Before Ruth Hall, a similar phrase appears in Clarissa Harlowe: The History of a Young Lady, an 18th-century novel, by Samuel Richardson. It’s one of the longest English-language books on earth at approximately 3,000 pages. (1,585 abridged by Penguin Classics in 1985).

I didn’t read it. But I read about it.

The two books share similar themes, especially on the notions of virtue and women’s roles, in and out of the kitchen.

I scoured Gutenberg.org for references to hearts and stomachs and found plenty.

Sexual Appetites

Sex, love, mood, and food are invariably linked.

Affection and sustenance go hand in hand in most every relationship. Who among us has not been fed to the point of bursting by family in a desperate demonstration of love?

Lately, I’ve been assaulted by bands of exuberant Sicilians, eager to welcome me into the fold, or Florentine restaurant royalty who let down their guard once I’ve been marked as an insider. They fill my cup and roll out the culinary red carpet.

Full to the point of fainting at Camillo Trattoria, I persisted.

When the owner of this historic Chiara Masiero, invites you in on the early side of lunch so she can talk, you sit, you listen, and you eat.

Read to the end for Chiara’s legendary pear torte.

Resistance isn’t just futile. It’s unfathomable. To turn down that last plate or pour is akin to slapping the face that says I love you.

When Fall Feeds You

There’s little to celebrate when the sun goes down at 5pm, but seasonal produce is an amazing remedy for fall blues.

In Rome, there’s always something to look forward to—berries, asparagus, and artichokes in spring, watermelon and peaches in summer, pears, and porcini mushrooms in Autumn. And puntarelle—my all-time favorite vegetable—starting now until the last frost. I’ll cover that celery-fennel hybrid magic in the coming months.

Pears and Pecorino

Pairing cheese and fruit is nothing new. Like wine and cheese, the natural sugar plays harmoniously alongside salty, aged cheeses especially.

My first experience with this was either an apple cheddar bagel sandwich, or my mom’s baked brie, which she crowned in wafer-thin spears of pear.

Another proverb: “Mai far sapere al contadino quanto è buono il cacio con le pere,” translates as: Never tell the farmer how good pears and pecorino taste together.

Cacio’ from the Latin: caseus, which predates the modern Italian word for cheese, formaggio. It’s especially prevalent in central Italy, and often (though not always) refers to pecorino, sheep’s cheese. Cacio e pepe pasta is a perfect example.

Pecorino and pears are particularly well suited.

Pears have a creamy, nostalgic sweetness and an almost ethereal quality, as if they’ve lived way longer than the year it took them to bud, bloom, and ripen.

They grow on trees yet exude an earthy quality. They smell like ground white pepper and honey (to me), perfectly compliment the spiky heat of aged pecorino. Both flavors have a rustic, almost animalic quality.

Whereas apples are too innocent, pears have been around the block. Pecorino is audacious. A perfect match.

Figuratively, the Italian proverb means, “If the farmer finds out, he’ll keep all this good stuff for himself.” In a broader sense, it’s all about gatekeeping the good stuff.

That’s not what we do here.

Check out this salad recipe or keep on reading for reading for a pasta with porcini mushrooms and Chiara’s incredible pear torte.

Porcini Mushrooms

I discovered porcini in Rome when I first moved here in 2001. They were not any sort of staple back then, certainly not in Midwest, USA.

The embodiment of autumn, the scent and flavor of funghi porcini evoke damp dead leaves. They’re savory and musky like shiitake, but slightly sweet and creamy when cooked.

Their name means “little pigs,” a reference to their shape. The resemblance is striking.

Porcini are highly priced for their compelling aromas, flavor, texture, and versatility.

In Italy they’re wild foraged, which adds to their mystique.

I remember my first winter here, and how the heady aroma of porcini wafted from open windows and restaurant terraces. The embodiment of autumn, their scent evokes damp dry leaves. They’re savory and musky like shitake, but creamier when cooked. It was impossible not to crave them.

You’ll most likely find them on the menu in one of these dishes:

• Risotto ai funghi porcini

• Bruschetta con porcini trifolati (sautéed with garlic and parsley)

• Porcini alla griglia or fritti (grilled or fried)

• Tagliatelle ai porcini (recipe below)

From Florentine Legend: Cammillo Trattoria

The Crown Jewels of Florence project, behind the scenes with real Florentines, all started with a restaurant recommendation.

I asked Prince Soldano Kunz d’Habsbourg-Lorena, owner, chef, and face of La Giostra—one of Florence’s most impossible tables— “What’s the best restaurant in Florence?”

He gave me a very short list, starting with Cammillo Trattoria. Stay tuned to hear all about them and meet the owners.

“Tell you Chiara I sent you. You’ll love it,” he said.

The next day I arrived before the lunch rush and sat down with Chiara Masiero, the third-generation owner.

Cammillo is an institution for Tuscan fare and exceptional seasonal produce. It also offers a unique taste of Florentine and family history. I ate so well I saw heaven.

Dedicated post coming soon!

In case you missed it..

Earlier this month I wrote about Volcanic wines from Mount Etna

and Neo-Renaissance man, Marco Cantini, a Florentine artisan with a heart of gold making magic out of silver.

See you in November!

XOXO,

Annie