A victim of its own grandeur, Florence attracts flocks of tourists.

The epicenter pulses around Santa Maria del Fiore, known simply as Il Duomo, for Brunelleschi’s imposing Dome, Italy’s second tallest after Saint Peter’s.

Crowds fan out in all directions from the square, overwhelming the narrow roads of the city.

It’s hard to imagine there’s peace and calm just across the Arno River in the area known as Oltrarno (lit. across the Arno).

Visitors and transplants have since discovered the charm across the bridges, but for years, Oltrarno was a purely Florentine residential and artisan area.

Leather tanners, fabric dyers, and other craftsmen gravitated toward the quarters along the Arno for much-needed access to river water.

At the height of the Renaissance, Oltrarno gained prestige with the construction of Palazzo Pitti and the noble families who relocated there.

Oltrarno teemed with botteghe (workshops). Woodworkers, goldsmiths, restorers, and leatherworkers—the craftsmanship for which Florence is renowned today— followed suit as demand for their services surged.

Oltrarno retains a heritage of artisanship and authenticity.

There’s a quiet, lived-in feeling to its neighborhoods, especially San Frediano and Santo Spirito.

Even in high season, you may find yourself alone on a small street, which is exactly how I met Raffaele Stella Brienza, the brain and heart behind Mani del Sud.

His window displays caught my eye, a glint amid the calm.

The windows are impossible to ignore, impeccably styled with the sole intention of grabbing your gaze.

Bold blue pedestals and illuminated glass cases feature bowties embossed in gold and feathers.

Hats emblazoned in bows of all sizes pose on stands suggesting whole personalities. As if their heads and bodies had come under an invisible spell, leaving only a aura of chic, the way fine fragrance lingers long after its wearer has turned the corner.

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I entered gently, afraid to upset the scene of meticulously tipped hats.

A warm male voice greeted me from the back of the shop.

“Entra, entra, Come in, come in.” He gestured for me to join him. “We were just going to have a coffee, can I offer you one?”

I accepted and sat down at a table piled high with scrolls of drafting paper and boxes of adornments.

A pretty young woman rose and introduced herself as Fiorenza. She’s worked Raffaele for a few years. Both hail from Potenza, in Basilicata, one of Italy’s southernmost regions, often overlooked by neighboring Puglia, Campania, and Calabria.

I explained my Florence project—behind the scenes with real Florentines, or in Raffaele’s case, adopted ones.

Raffaele arrived thirty-three years ago to study, first philosophy, and later design at Polimoda. He fell in love with the artistry and creativity all around him, and now happily calls Florence his second home.

I ask him what is so inspiring about the city.

“Florence is a city of inexhaustible beauty. It offers multitudes of aesthetic experiences. Dimensionally, it’s easy to get around, which allows you to take in so much in a single day.”

Early on in his career, Raffaele shifted his focus from clothing to il décor, handcrafted accessories.

He launched his own brand, Mani del Sud, in 2013, initially dedicated to bowties, which he fashioned together with his mother.

Mani del Sud translates literally as “hands from the south” or “southern hands.”

The concept embodies the skill and authenticity Raffaele associates with his southern roots.

“When I think of the hands of my ancestors, it’s more than a farmer with dirt beneath his nails, but also the aging skin of an expert seamstress sewing, or [a grandmother] cooking. There’s wisdom in those hands—they transmit the wisdom of experience.”

The bowtie represents an infinite and indissoluble bond—between the past the present, as well as the tradition and craftsmanship of southern Italy and Florence’s vibrant, innovative community.

In a 2015 interview, he describes an original inspiration, deeply rooted in memory.

“I pictured a farmer choosing a suit for his daughter’s wedding. How does he make it distinctive, to commemorate the occasion?

He fashions a bowtie and this a simple, yet whimsical accessory takes on a new and joyful significance. The bowtie becomes a part of his everyday wardrobe, indispensable as a hat or belt.”

The Future is Tomorrow’s Present

“So why not revive a tradition of fine craftsmanship, why leave it in the past?”

The simplicity of the bowtie reminds Raffaele of his own past.

“We made our first bows with simple cotton strands, typical of trouser lining. The idea was to recover the artisanship without wasting a shred.”

The collection continues to evolve, employing feathers, stones, and embroidery. Each one crafted by hand.

Raffaele’s bows remain his signature creation, but Mani del Sud now produces hats, scarves, and shirts in fine fabrics meant to be adorned.

The heart of the brand lies in timeless elegance, unostentatious individuality.

Who’s Your Client?

“I’d like to think that anyone can wear my bowties as well as my other designs. These are absolutely unprejudiced accessories!”

Mani del Sud

Via del Campuccio, 33/R
SITO| @manidelsud_official
TEL +39 347 86 35 737

Behind the Scenes with Florentines

After nearly thirty-three years, Raffaele Stella Brienza feels very much at home in Florence.

Born and raised in Potenza, in the southern region of Basilicata, he moved to the city to study. First philosophy, and later fashion design.

His brand, Mani del Sud, began with handmade bowties and has since expanded to include hats, scarves, and shirts, all intricately crafted by hand.

The bows remains his signature.

The simple, yet evocative symbol is an homage to his birthplace, and the non-pretentious elegance and artisanship he associates with southern Italy.

The bows represent Raffaele himself, a product of two very different places, seamlessly entwined.

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He told me his story over coffee in his atelier in the Oltrarno district. Once we dissected the origins of his brand, we talked about his love of Florence.

Read more about Raffaele and his brand here.

Florence can feel impenetrable, not only for tourists but also for Italians who weren’t born and raised within its storied city walls.

By now, the city has embraced Raffaele. He credits Florence with the innovation and energy that fueled the creation of his brand. He adores the small dimensions of the city, that make it easy to get around which allows you to experience all shades of its beauty and aesthetics in a single day.

Read on for Raffaele’s favorite places in the Oltrarno district and beyond.

We’ve got coffee, drinks, gelato, a must-see museum, two of his favorite works of art, a perfect walk for a blast of natural inspiration, and a modern-day café with old school salon vibes, a bookstore, and live music.

*Premium subscribers have access to the full list, but here’s a little taste….starting with wine, of course!

A drink after work: Spontaneo

Spontaneo Wine Bar, as the name suggests (spontaneo is Italian for spontaneous, as in fermentation), is a beloved neighborhood natural wine bar.

If the crowds are any indication, Raffaele is not alone in his recommendation. Wine is focus, the word on the street is that the food is even better. Traditional and artisanal dishes are driven by seasonality and personality. Wine and food pairing here is a delight.

Free from pretension and for natural wine newbies, a great place to dip your toe in.

Enoteca Spontanea

Via Maggio, 61r,
TEL + 39 055 049 8258
@enotecaspontanea

Best local Gelato: La Sorbettiera

La Sorbettiera in its original location in Piazza Tasso is the undisputed favorite in Oltrarno as far as I can tell.

What they lack in historical capital, the current owners make up for with a genuine respect for Florence’s patrimony of gelato production. Rigorously fresh, driven by seasonal ingredients, creativity never supersedes quality.

Many flavors are inspired by the owners’ travels, for example a Thai recipe incorporating lemongrass and coconut. The New England 1776 is creamy maple syrup with candied bacon. The salted caramel is ethereal.

Check the site for more locations in town. They’re blowing up for good reason.

La Sorbettiera

Piazza Tasso, 11r
SITE | @lasorbettiera

Relax with coffee, books, and wine at La Cité.

Opened in 2007, La Cité was inspired by Florence’s vibrant history of café culture. The multi-use space includes a bookshop with upwards of 5000 titles, new and used. Come mid-afternoon for coffee, wine, and small plates with a dose of old-school salon sophistication.

Conversation and lively debate are encouraged. As the night progresses, book and film presentations and live music pepper the schedule. The founders envision a city within a city, a cultural sanctuary from the traffic and the frenetic day-to-day of modern urban life.

La Cité Libreria Café

Borgo San Frediano, 20r
TEL +39 349 901 1105
SITE | @lacitefirenze

Premium subscribers, read on for the full list.

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Marco Cantini is not a jeweler’s son, but he holds the patrimony of Florentine craftsmanship in his hands.

Audacious, meticulous, and deeply personal, Cantini implements centuries-old techniques to craft contemporary pieces sprung from his own imagination and inspired by his customers.

At just fourteen, he left school and began apprenticing at the shops on Ponte Vecchio, Florence’s iconic bridge, and home to a dizzying selection of fine gold and silver.

Once a Roman structure connecting the narrowest bend of the Arno River, its current iteration dates to the mid 14th Century.

Originally built to accommodate butcher shops, fish mongers, and other merchants who tossed their waste in the river, in 1565, Ponte Vecchio received a Renaissance renovation.

Architect Georgio Vasari designed an upper corridor, the Corridoio Vasariano, to facilitate safe and private passage between Palazzo Vecchio and Pitti Palace.

Appalled by the odors emanating from the produce markets below, Grand Duke Ferdinand evicted the offending vendors replaced them with gold and silversmiths and jewelers. The beautified space soon swelled with aristocratic and international commerce as Florence flourished.

Today, Ponte Vecchio honors a heritage of fine Florentine craftsmanship, innovation and a steadfast conduit to the past.

It was here that Marco immersed himself in the ancient art of gold-smithing. He honed his practice in the ornate and floral Florentine floral style. He recalls his maestro sending him out to the Boboli Gardens to collect leaves and replicate them down to gentlest curl and finest vein.

His laboratory executed pieces for storied jewelers, including the house of Mario Buccellati, the so-called “prince of goldsmiths.”

After years of apprenticeship, Marco took on the role of master himself, at Florence’s Alchimia jewelry institute.

He went on to take his trade abroad, collaborating on pieces for Tiffany in New York City and David Morris in London and Miami.

Upon his return to Florence, with a team of investors he opened a shop in a deconsecrated church on Via delle Terme. He called it Limelight, in part, an ode to the famed nightclub but also to the idea that his creations would shine here.

While gold will always be his first love, Marco’s design instincts ultimately leaned toward silver.

He tells me, “I had an intuition about it, too, that silver could become just as popular a material for highly ornamental pieces.”

Limelight featured mostly silver, with gold on request. Within a few years, however, as so often happens, he found his vision stifled by commercial demands.

He adds, “I started out just for fun, experimenting with materials, and then I got lost in it—in a good way! Jewelry, or rather, the art of creating small objects that tell a story, immediately captivated me. And over time, it became my way of expressing myself.”

He eventually closed Limelight and moved his laboratory and business under his own name.

A practicing Buddhist, he was captivated by the Japanese concept of 再生 (saisei), a word that encompasses rebirth and regeneration. In modern usage it refers to urban and ecological renewal. “I was eager to create a personal project that reflects my way of being,” he says.

He called his first collection RECYCLE.

In place of precious stones, he embedded pieces of broken glass bottles collected on the beach. He shows me pictures, each piece unique. “I used fragments from shattered Beck’s beer bottle for the green, and for cobalt blue, Ty Nant mineral water.”

The RECYCLE collection was intended for women, like much of his work, but later began expanding his designs for male clientele.

Half-joking, he tells me, “Men are just as vain as women, if not more so! They just can’t show it. Things are changing, but today’s society still paints male vanity as weak, calling into question their masculinity. It shouldn’t.”

Marco’s instincts proved correct. His current lab on Via Castello D’Altafronte sees a constant flow of both male and female customers, many of them long-time clients turned friends and vice versa.

Marco’s work today reflects the diversity of his clientele, but it’s also inspired by them, crafted to their specifications, and modified to their mood.

From one-off creations to modified versions of his existing lines, Marco defines himself not as a jewelry designer, but as an artisan.

“I’m very much about personalizing it. You bring your inspiration, your energy, and I’ll make it,” he says.

Over the course of his career, he’s collaborated with brands including Roberto Cavalli, Patrizia Pepe, and Replay. He also designs the winning ring for city’s annual calcio storico tournament—a rugby-football-soccer hybrid played since Medieval times played between historical neighborhood teams.

In the store, you’ll find chunky silver rings, intricately incised with larger-than-life stone settings, and some his signature shapes: a crocodile, a roaring tiger, a playfully creepy bunny skull, and a larger-than-life nodo fiorentino, a nod to the de’ Medici era symbol depicting two intersecting rings harmoniously formed from a single thread.

His Cromo collection, bracelets and necklaces, was born of his fascination for chromotherapy—a philosophical and healing practice based on the idea that colors can influence mood, energy, and physical health.

“Color affects us more than we realize,” he explains. It isn’t always something we chose. It chooses us subconsciously even when we dress and accessorize.”

At this point we realize we have a favorite color in common, orange.

I tell him I’m drawn to it for its vibrancy and warmth.

He’s insists, “These colorful strands have power. There’s something playful and childlike about them as well. I’ve had eighty-year-olds tell me they feel younger when they wear them.”

Other bracelets utilize semi-precious stones punctuated with small sculptures in silver, bronze and gold. You’ll find depictions of skulls, angels, the iconic Florentine iris. Buy off the rack, or choose your own colors, and decals.

“What gives me the most satisfaction is seeing something come to life from my hands, from scratch. You start with an idea, maybe a color or a shape that’s been in your head for days, and slowly it comes to life.”

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He’s had plenty of special requests, from a rose-shaped ring from a man to his wife, to scented stones—a technique he refuses to reveal.

A strong believer in karma—the principle of cause and effect—he trusts some customers to try on pieces for a few days on the honor system, before paying for them.

“When someone wears it and identifies with it, that’s when you know you’ve hit the mark. It’s a silent dialogue between the creator and the wearer. It’s beautiful.”

For those who don’t have time to personalize over days, I ask what is the most iconic ready-to-wear piece at the moment.

“Without a doubt, Mosaiko bracelets. They are kind of my signature.”

“I use Japanese Tila Miyuki glass beads because they are incredibly precise. I arrange them like little pictures, one by one. Each bracelet has its own rhythm and colors, and even if they look similar, no two are ever the same.

It is the piece that best reflects my way of working: order, color, and harmony.”

And Marco Cantini as a brand? In three words? I propose audacious, meticulous and thoughtful.

Marco pushes back. “See? A brand is something others define for you. I don’t think this is arrogant to say, I prefer to think that even if it isn’t signed, you can tell it’s mine.”

I ask him what makes Florence so inspiring.

He sighs. “Florence... oh, Florence gets under your skin.”

Obviously, it’s a city filled with art, but what does Florence give you personally, I ask him.

“It exudes beauty in every corner. But it’s not just the art in the museums: it’s the light, the proportions of the buildings, the quality of the silence in certain alleys early in the morning.

It’s a city that forces you—in a good way—to strive for excellence. For me, it’s a constant source of inspiration: it reminds you every day that you’re part of something bigger, that there’s a tradition to honor and, at the same time, to innovate and evolve.”

Is there another jewelry store in Florence you recommend to readers?

He’ll enthusiastically send shoppers to Vaggi. The multi-generational brand specializes in fine antiques as well as their own creations.

“Vaggi combines art and architecture: each piece has an elegantly and scrupulously crafted, and never banal. You can see the craftsman’s hand and feel the passion. And that, for me, makes all the difference.”

I ask him about non-wearable art, seeing as he lives in a city surrounded by it.

Is there a particular work art or architecture in Florence that still takes his breath away every time?

Without a breath he replies.

“Il Ponte Vecchio. I’m constantly enchanted by the bridge—not for the jewelry shops that line it, but the bridge itself. We pass it every morning when I walk my daughter to school. I tell to stop and look. Just, look how beautiful it is.”

Marco Cantini

Via del Castello D’Altafronte, 30/32r
TEL +39 055 289458
SITE | @cantinimcfirenze

This story is part of the Crown Jewels of Florence series, behind the scenes with real Florentines.

Carlotta knows a thing or two about heritage brands.

She’s currently carrying her family’s artisan leather design and production company, Misuri into its second century.

Florence is undoubtedly a shopper’s paradise.

From legacy designers like Gucci and Ferragamo to high-end and vintage jewelry, and leather products galore, it’s easy to spend here.

Read on for some shopping and dinning tips from a true insider.

Local Flavor

For those looking for something uniquely Florentine, Carlotta shared her favorite shops in the Santa Croce neighborhood where she was born and raised, along with restaurant and bar picks (and what to order).

Signum is an adorable shop selling all kinds of artisanal creations like from the famous Florentine paper, notebooks, diaries, and hand-painted little bookshelves. I’m hardly a tourist, but every time I go in there, I lose my mind and want to buy everything!

Like Misuri, Loretta Caponi is a true heritage brand.

It’s named for the young woman who learned the trade in the nearby town of Fiesole and mastered the art of embroidery to support her family. Founded in 1924, the shop continues an exquisite tradition of embroidery. They sell exquisite sheet sets, lingerie and loungewear as well as tailored gowns, each of which is a unique masterpiece.

Antica Occhialeria sells hand-crafted eyeglasses made to measure at accessible prices.

For clothing accessories, I really like Studioteca on Via dei Benci. They work with small, local Florentine brands. The collection is super curated and exceptional quality. A lot the pieces are originals, in fabrics produced from natural fibers.

Carlotta Caserta on Eating & Drinking in Santa Croce

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Few cities in the word rival the signature scent of Florence, Italy.

An accord built on association and observation, it’s easy to summon the scentscape.

Florence smells of sun-swollen tomatoes on the vine, glowing green basil, the autumnal shades of Mediterranean shrubs like rosemary (its tips tinged by hearth flame), with a vertical sting of cypress sap and to match the trees from which they’ve fallen.

In early winter, peppercorn, hearth smoke, and the heady scent of freshly unearthed truffles hover overhead.

But at its heart, Florence smells like leather. A warm, sweet assault, instantly recognizable.

*This article is part of our ‘Crown Jewels of Florence’ series, where we go behind the scenes with real Florentines.

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Leather craft has flourished in Florence since Medieval times.

Artisan guilds and approved practices, known as L'Arte degli Cuoiai e Galigai were established as early as the 13th century. To this day, Florentine leather maintains a reputation for quality and artistry.

Tannery—the transformation of raw animal hides into versatile and durable materials—takes its name from the tannins employed in the process.

Did you say tannins?

If the tannins sound familiar to the wine savvy readers out there, you’re on the right track.

Tannins exist throughout the plant world, often in skins, barks, and seed husks. They function as protection again pests and act as natural preservatives.

In wine, the seeds and skins exposed to macerating grapes lends wine a drying, snappy quality on the palate, especially in young wines.

Nebbiolo, Sagrantino, and Cabernet Sauvignon are great examples. These wines enjoy long vibrant lives thanks these same tannins.

For more on wine tannins, check out his video, from my series 21 Days to Wine.

Water is integral to tannery.

The rise of leather tannery in Florence is directly related to access to fresh and flowing water from the Arno River.

Tannery requires constant soaking and rinsing of the raw hides as they are disinfected, treated with lime to facilitate the removal of hair and flesh, and finally preserved with tannic-rich barks and mineral salts before being colored, oiled, sliced, and refined for use in commercial production.

The production of dyes requires hours of soaking to produce dyes from flowers, plants, barks and spices.

This is followed by the actual dying process.

The regular source of water streaming through the city of Florence led to a vibrant industry in leather craftsmanship, often centered in neighborhoods close to the river, principally Santa Croce, where Misuri’s original storefront still stands.

From Function to Fabulous Form

At the height of the Renaissance, new techniques like chiseling, gilding with gold leaf, and painting, transformed leather from utilitarian to a decorative art form.

As Florence surged as a hub of art and innovation, leather craftsmanship expanded to include accessories like gloves, shoes, and accessories.

Florence’s post-war fashion and design boom shined an international spotlight on Florentine leather, cementing the city’s heritage of sought-after craftsmanship.

The city embraced their signature skillset and encouraged young artisans to learn the trade.

For a fascinating glimpse into the history of leather production, check out the Scuola del Cuoio, located inside the Monastery of Santa Croce. It was established in the 1950s as a collaboration between the Friars of Santa Croce, and two of the city’s oldest leather artisan families to train young artisans and promote their wares.

Today the institute is still active, along with a delectable leather boutique.

Generational Artisanship

Even with the advent of modern technologies and synthetic treatments and dyes, traditional leather craft has been passed down through generations of Florentine families, several of whom are still in business today.

Alluring and ubiquitous, leather shops abound in Florence. Their dazzling selections of colorful bags and jackets and the intoxicating scent of vero cuio (genuine leather) can be overwhelming.

Misuri is a perfect place to start!

If You asked Me, I Could Write a Book

Cue the Dinah Washington version (best ever),

Misuri was established in 1906.

Manager and Creative Director, Carlotta, has so much to share about the business, she could write a book, she tells me excitedly.

In fact, she’s been collecting documents and material with that very goal in mind.

Meet Misuri: A Century of Leather Craft

I caught up with Carlotta who, along with her father Filippo, is currently carrying Misuri leather into its second century.

“We’re passionate about our craft, we love what we do, but ours is also a story of continually looking forward and evolving. We’ve sacrificed a lot over the years to keep the business afloat,” she says.

It begins with Cesare Misuri, a young bookbinder who had mastered the art of Florentine gold leaf imprints and adornments.

Eager to grow his skill set, he applies the technique to other leather pieces like decorative boxes and cases. His intricate designs and lend a luxurious quality to his work, and form the basis for the Misuri brand.

In 1906, he opens his laboratory on Piazza Santa Croce, at the heart of Florence’s leather district. In 1930 they open a storefront (where it still stands today), and before long, Misuri becomes synonymous with artisanal Florentine leather work.

From Father to Daughter

In 1943, at just 19 years old, Cesare Misuri’s daughter, Iolanda, takes the reins following his death.

WWII has ravaged the country, but Iolanda maintains her stealth commitment to the family business, pivoting production to suit American and English soldiers based in Florence and throughout Italy.

This act of survival would lead carry the Misuri name well beyond the Italian borders.

Nel 1948, Iolanda marries Daniel Quinn, an enterprising Englishman with global vision.

This infusion of international ambition combined with a boon of American tourism in the 1950s put Misuri on the map, literally and figuratively as the place to go for authentic, high quality Florentine leather.

From Floods of Tourists to Floods of Destruction

Like many of Florence’s enduring family businesses, the great flood of 1966 destroyed much of the factory store, but the Misuri family rebuilt and revitalized their business, more determined than ever.

Carlotta and Filippo’s family have been at the helm since the 1980s. they lovingly carry on Misuri’s namesake and heritage down to the detail. Carlotta keeps an eye on the future, while never losing sight of Misuri’s roots.

Her father, Filippo. handles the administrative side, whereas Carlotta oversees production of their latest creations, and the store itself.

“It’s funny to think about,” say Carlotta. During completely different eras, history repeats itself. Just like Cesare and Iolanda, today, it’s my father and I who forge onward.”

How has the leather business changed over the years?

In many ways, I’ve seen a positive change, says Carlotta. “Clients are more discerning than ever. They look for the finer details, higher quality, and unique, hand-made items.”

I ask her how Misuri stands out in a city swarming in leather shops.

“We differentiate ourselves by investing in research, constantly exploring new materials for jackets and handbags. The goal is to offer our clients an authentic shopping experience, and truly special products that represent the mark of Made in Italy, which is sadly vanishing.”

She continues, “Unfortunately, artisanal leatherwork is suffering a profound crisis moment. Many small, family-run artisan companies are closing. Our work is fundamental to preserving an enviable Florentine legacy.”

“It’s not simple, “she adds. “Tools like e-commerce and social media are time-consuming to implement and very competitive, yet they push us and increase our visibility. We’re doing our best. We’re really trying!”

Misuri is a fully immersive shopping experience, and a trip through history.

Tailoring and embossed lettering all happen on-site. It’s a look behind the curtain at one of Florence’s most revered and traditional trades, and a nod to founder Cesare’s original craft.

What’s a quintessential piece, something that embodies the essence of Misuri?

Carlotta doesn’t hesitate. “Our Kelly 1950 bag is our signature. It’s completely made by hand and impossible to replicate on at industrial scale. The workmanship, the panels, and stitching require expert hands, skilled fingers, and even antique tools.”

The bag was born in 1950, in collaboration with Dante Calonici (formerly of Gucci) and Cesare Misuri, and is still handmade using original techniques. The classic model is gilded with 22k gold, applied with heated brass as per Cesare's storied practice.

“The Kelly 1950 embodies beauty, uniqueness, and our passion for tradition,” says Carlotta. “In the store, you can watch an artisan at work, Sandrina, as she crafts every detail by hand. It takes at least eight hours—not consecutively—to complete. Each stage requires time, patience, and great experience.”

It’s not just a bag. It’s a distillation of over 115 years of Misuri’s history and encapsulates Florentine artisan excellence.

The Kelly 1950 hovers around the €1,000 price point.

For those looking to spend a bit less, while taking home an authentic piece, choose anything in the store that appeals to you, and have it hand embossed.

I opted for a coin purse and matching a carry-all in a perfect azure blue my mother loved. It’s almost too pretty to use.

Misuri

Piazza di Santa Croce, 20
TEL +39 055 240995
SITE | @misuri.firenze

This story is part of the Crown Jewels of Florence series.

To read more from Carlotta, and get her behind-the-scenes Florentine recommendations on where to shop, eat, and drink in Santa Croce, consider an upgraded subscription.

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If “bartender years” were a thing, Giacomo Malavolti would be a sage elder among the community.

He speaks with quiet confidence and conviction that seem almost incongruous with his smooth skin and 33 years.

He’s just come off seven months of work, bringing the W lounge to life within the hotel franchise’s latest location in Florence, Italy.

Read on for an inside look at what goes into opening a bar, how hotel bars have influenced cocktail culture, and where this ultra-local expert goes for a great Negroni in town.

For more on the Negroni, and its featured ingredient, Campari, check out this primer.

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Bars Far from Home

Giacomo’s career has taken him far from the place where he grew up—a tiny town just outside of Florence, Italy called, Firenzuola (literally, ‘little Florence’).

Before returning “home,” Giacomo worked in Granada, Spain, London and Yorkshire, England, Belfast, Rome,and Cortina D’Ampezzo, the dazzling ski destination Italy’s Dolomite Mountains.

Behind the Scenes at Hotel Bars

His first hotel opening was the Faloria, a five-star resort nestled in the peaks of Cortina D’Ampezzo. Giacomo arrived as the hotel was passing from four stars to five. In Europe, the rigorously methodical process is based on specific criteria regarding amenities and services. An application and inspection determines the outcome.

Giacomo describes the experience as more “muscular than conceptual. We were putting everything in place to revitalize the bar.”

For the opening at Yorkshire’s majestic Grantley Hall, Giacomo wore several hats, including server, sommelier and bartender. While the bar and restaurant concept, he was already in place when he arrived, he had the opportunity to watch it unfold, and participate in a successful execution.

“For the opening of the W Rome, I was much more involved,” he says. “It’s still part of my heart, because we kind of built it out of nowhere.”

He explains that in Rome, hotel bars weren’t really considered a place to meet-up, that changed at the W.

“For the first year we were the place to be, always full! I realized how important music is to the atmosphere, and how service connects us to the rest of the world. Clients are coming from everywhere, but also locals. That exchange is where innovation happens.”

Hotel Bars: A Brief History

This title is a lie. Much of today’s cocktail culture was born behind the bars of hotels worldwide. There’s nothing brief about it, and the history well worth a deeper dive. To give you a proverbial taste:

The Singapore Sling was created in 1915 at the original Raffles Hotel in Singapore, not to be confused with the Raffles London, which opened to acclaim in 2023 and skyrocketed to fame.

The London outpost of Raffles hosts a speakeasy called Spy Bar that serves notoriously delicious drinks and is equally notorious for not letting you inside.

New York’s Knickerbocker Hotel is one supposed birthplace of the dry Martini circa 1911—a twist on the sweeter, 19th-century Martinez cocktail—though other valid theories abound, including the Martini brand of vermouth, which was popular in the early 20th century.

Few dispute the Caribe Hilton in San Juan, Puerto Rico’s claim to the Piña Colada (1950s), or New York’s King Cole Bar at the Saint Regis for the Boody Mary.

The list goes on.

Meeting Place Meets International Minds

Malavolti credits the innovation at hotel bars with their international clientele and idea that a hotel bars are a gathering place, something Italians haven’t considered for years.

“Here, in Italy, a country so driven by tourism, hotels were seen as a place to spend your money and time on vacation, not necessarily as a social outing.”

The UK opened his eyes.

“It’s undeniable, and so real. When I moved to London, I realized that cocktails are born when cultures come together, and this happens during travel."

Hotels are hubs for travelers.

As Giacomo explains, innovation is what happens when there is this cultural clash. “This doesn’t happen as much at pubs and taverns, or your local bar.”

We both agree that we ove those places because we go to feel at home, for the comforts of the same people, places and flavors, but that’s not where novelty is born.

Where do speakeasies fit in to Cocktail culture?

During prohibition a lot of Americans fled the USA intent on continuing their craft abroad.

“That’s another perfect example of cultures colliding,” says Giacomo. That as well as the soldiers who remained around Europe after the war (WW2). They brought new flavors and concepts to major cities around Europe.”

Travel is key.

He cites the Negroni. While it wasn’t created at a hotel necessarily, but it was born out international travel, a lot of drinking in hotels (Count Camillo Negroni liked a stiff one!), and flavors plucked up along the way.

Important figures in the hotel bar industry like Harry Craddock of London’s Savoy Hotel ‘American Bar’ went on to publish cocktail manuals that became foundational texts and the basis to bar menus for decades to come.

“Craddock was an avid traveler himself,” says Giacomo. “After spending a lot of time in the USA, he returned to his native London and complained about the British only drinking beer, Scotch and Soda, and they drank very slow!”

Despite having access to a lot of spirits like Rum and Gin from the colonies, it was the influx of American bartenders that built up the culture.

Opening the W Lounge, Florence

In July of 2025, W Florence opened its doors.The franchise’s second property in Italy pay tribute to the city’s iconic mid-century style. Specifically the 1960s and 1970s, a vibrant period following the great flood of 1966 when art, design, and fashion flourished.

As the city rebuilt, architecture and design embraced a new take on the functionality of the early 20th-century rationalism and modernism, with a colorful, playful energy. Think: sturdy lines and mixed metals meet the whimsical flutter of Pucci and Ferragamo.

Wonder Bar

“Every cocktail menu should have a title. It sets the pace for what the guest expects,” Says Giacomo.

The process of opening a bar with a distinct concept and identity within a well-established franchise must be complicated. I asked about his approach.

“We have to do a lot of market and place analysis. Why do we do what we because we are in Florence versus Rome or anywhere else in the world? We take inspiration from what’s surrounding us—the history of the building itself, the city, Tuscany’s rich heritage. Whenever you’ve got roots to a place you can tap into, even within a very standard franchise, you can build those roots into your concept.”

In keeping with the hotel’s overall design concept, Giacomo worked with head bartender, Daniele Volpe to develop variations on classic cocktails that exude a sense of innovation and exploration. He tapped designer Alfredo del Bene for the menu design.

For example: the Chianti ‘in the City, made with locally distilled whiskey, was inspired by a New York Sour. Vespucci’s Voyage takes its cues from the Gimlet, but implements a bergamot liqueur and (distilled) Sardinian sea water.

You can get a classic Negroni here of course, or try the Honolulu Negroni, a whimsical twist on the origin story. If Conte Camillo Negroni had traveled to Hawaii. A way to get Florence’s most famous cocktail in the hands of those who want something a bit fruitier, while keeping the DNA of the original. Fig leaf represents the quintessence of Tuscany, plus coconut and pineapple for a tropical spin.

Unlock Giacomo’s Negroni hot list with an upgraded subscription.

Five Bars in Florence for Great Negroni

Giacosa

This place has earned its institution status for a few reasons. Most significantly, the Negroni was born here. More specifically, across the street from here at the corner of Via de’ Tornabuoni and Via della Spada. The bar has since changed names and hands, and moved a few meters down the road, but it’s essentially the mecca for Negroni-lovers.

Once known as Caffè Casoni, this the place where Count Camillo Negroni famously asked his bartender, Fosco Scarselli, to strengthen his Americano, with a dash of gin.

According to Giacomo, Giacosa also represents Florentine tastes. “We drink very bitter, and very boozy!” Giacosa serves their Negroni through a siphon for a fizzy, foamy kick. Beware. These babies go down easily.

Via della Spada, 15 R
TEL +39 0552021617
SITE | @giacosa_1815

Locale

This restaurant and cocktail bar tops a lot of lists. It’s housed in literal history. It’s housed in the 16th-century Concini palazzo with a downstairs cellar that dates back to Medieval times, with visible Roman relics to boot. An international crowd, ornate decor, and a thoroughly modern menu all adds up to fabulous, but they don’t rely on vibe alone. Cocktails are expertly crafted, and some of the city’s best (Giacomo and many other locals will confirm).

Via delle Seggiole, 12r
TEL +39 0559067188
SITE | @localefirenze

Raaro

Outside the buzz of the city center, Raaro is located in the Campo Marte area. “That’s a big part of it’s appeal already,” say Giacomo. It’s has a true neighborhood feel because it’s exactly that. “They make a great Negroni, but honestly all of their drinks are great.”
Piazza Leopoldo Nobili, 15
TEL +39 0559867009
SITE | @raaro_sipsandbites

Rasputin

This speakeasy-style spot is across the river (Oltrarno) in the Santo Spirito area. “While they’re more known as a whiskey bar, I love their approach to classic cocktails and to spirits in general,” says Giacomo. “Whatever they put in the glass, they treat it with respect. They know what they’re doing.”

Borgo Tegolaio, 21R
TEL +39 0557609957
SITE | @rasputinfirenze

W Lounge

Tested and approved! I’ve tasted the classic Negroni (as pictured above) as well as the delightful deviation,The Honolulu. There’s something so playful and breezy about the atmosphere—the lounge is located within the courtyard of the building and flooded with light—it just feels right.

Piazza dell’Unita, 4/B
TEL +39 055 99466
SITE | @wflorence.hotel

Vivoli is viral, for good reason.

If you ask the Internet and the influencers for Florence’s best gelato, Vivoli tops the list.

The only other gelateria recommended with such ferver, was La Sorbettiera. Stay tuned for a taste of them next month! My mouth is still watering.

I’ve been to Florence a lot this year. Every time I pass Vivoli—no matter the hour—the line snakes up and down their original location on Via Isola delle Stinche.

Triumphant travelers perch on the curbs of nearby corners in a happy race against the sun to spoon ice cream and coffee-drenched affogato from little cups to their sticky, smiling mouths.

I asked Florentines and longtime locals the same gelato question, and they confirmed it, right down to restaurant royalty, Chiara Masiero. The owner of beloved Cammillo Trattoria, one of the city’s most impossible tables, didn’t flinch.

She’s been a client of Vivoli per years and serves their crema alongside her legendary apple torte. “It’s still made with full cream and eggs, they kept the original recipe,” she tells me.

Next best flavors? Vin santo and Crema with orange zest. The orange cream flavor was recommended multiple times. I can site sources.

I had the pleasure of wrapping up an unforgettable lunch at Cammillo with a taste of Vivoli. Chiara insisted. Resistance was futile.

As a last meal on earth, Cammillo is a contender. I’ll publish my story on Chiara and Cammillo in the fall.

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Four Generations of Gelato

In 1929, Serafino Vivoli purchased a latteria on Via Dell'Isola delle Stinche, 7 r.

In an epic chain of communicative command, I reached out to his great-granddaughter, Giulia, whose mother Patrizia, and grandmother, Simonetta, joined forces to share stories and pictures.

Fun and potentially confusing Florentine fact: street numbers come with the initials r (for rosso: red) and n (for nero: black). After the unification of Italy, Florence maintained a thriving commercial identity. To designate businesses addresses from private residences, they were labeled in red.

According to Patrizia, “It’s a small street that doesn’t get a lot of foot traffic and many Florentines don’t even know it exists, and yet is packed with history.”

The street is named for Le Stinche, a 1300s-era prison built to hold the captives of Castello Le Stinche, following a Florentine conquest. It was later used for political prisoners and as debtors’ jail and housed none other than Niccolò Machiavelli, after he was caught up in a Medici paranoid conspiracy theory.

The prison was referred to as an isola (an island) for its windowless high walls and a moat-like canal. It’s only entrance was known as La Porta della Misera: the gate to misery.

In its place, now stands a much happier packed house, Teatro Verdi.

From Whipped Cream to Ice Cream

A latteria, as the name suggests, was a place to purchase dairy products, especially milk and cream. Soon after Serafino took the reins, the latteria became a Sunday gathering place for an espresso and a package of fresh whipped cream.

A year later, Serafino’s brother Raffaello convinced him to focus on ice cream. They bought a machine and built a counter, but there were no freezers back then, and ice was a hot commodity (so to speak).

It was harvested and delivered from a mountain town called Saltino on the Tuscany’s eastern border with Emilia. In Saltino, temperatures dipped so severely, the residents made an industry out of it.

They carved vats underground or out of stone, to collect and conserve snow. The ghiacciaie (ice houses) were insulated with straw, and kept naturally formed ice cool all year.

Blocks of ice were delivered by night to merchants to keep food fresh, or in the case of Vivoli, to create frozen delights.

A Surge in the ‘60s and ‘70s

By 1960, Vivoli had established itself as the city’s gelateria. Raffaello’s son Piero took over the business, and soon enough, Vivoli made it into international guidebooks as an absolutely must-see destination, “practically like a monument,” says Patrizia.

Another surge, the great flood of 1966, threatened to slow their momentum. When the Arno River burst its banks, Florence was devastated by waist-high waters, mud, and toxic sludge.

While teams of international volunteers, known as angeli del fango (mud angels) swooped in save Florence’s cultural treasures, the Vivoli family donned rubber boots and gloves and cleaned up their shop in a matter of weeks.

A Family Affair

Piero and his wife Simonetta, and their daughters, Patrizia and Silvana kept the business alive by maintaining the quality of ingredients and the original recipes.

Consistency paid off. Patrizia recalls customers coming back years later to tell her, “I studied abroad here, and I wanted to bring my family so they could taste your ice cream. It’s just like I remember.”

Vivoli has been a landmark ever since. Customers who arrive at closing have used all kinds of excuses, desperate for a fix. Among them:

My wife is pregnant

It’s my last day here.

Please, I’m going to miss my train!

Today, a fourth generation of Vivolis, Giulia and Lorenzo, head the business. They’ve brought experiences from abroad, and infused creative energy into the institution. Flavors like orange-chocolate and their latest, creamy rice gelato are as innovative as they are sumptuous.

To celebrate the 95^th anniversary of the gelateria in May of 2025, they launched a space next door dedicated to affogato. They took a classic dessert—a scoop of ice cream affogato (drowned) in espresso to a new level.

Vivoli’s Affogato Bar will drench your gelato flavors in coffee, liqueurs, and gourmet toppings like chopped pistachios and hazelnuts or chocolate.

When it comes to lines, Vivoli is worth the wait. Bring a good friend or a good book and of course, your appetite. One is never enough.

Vivoli + Affogato Bar

Via Isola delle Stinche, 7r (red)
TEL +39 055 292334
SITE | @vivoli_il_gelato
Tue-Sat: 8:00am-9pm / Sun: 9am-8pm

Hospitality on Four Wheels

Last month, I hitched a ride to the train station with these guys.

I was running late, it was hot, I had a backpack full of wine. Classic dilemma.

I may have charmed them into a free lift, but in the ten minutes it took us to get the station, the effervescent and enterprising team behind Florence Platinum Tours charmed me right back.

While notoriously walkable, tourist hubs like Rome and Florence rarely account for what I call human traffic.

It’s more than crowds. You navigate photo shoots in progress (if you’re being polite), risk selfie sticks to the eye, and you wait out parades of guided tours who choke intersections, like feckless baby ducklings, and far less cute.

Everyone is looking around in awe, or worse, at their phones. Accidents are inevitable.

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Picture-Perfect Florentine Charm

From the inside of a convertible vintage car, the roads are instantly ours.

With the wind in my hair, we parted seas of people who didn’t mind making space. The vintage cars inspire joy. Tourists wave and smile. They snap photos of us too.

Before I dashed toward the train platform we exchanged numbers. I promised to be back. I wanted to learn more.

Kindness goes a long way.

As promised, I booked a two-hour ride during my most recent trip to Florence. It might just be the best money I’ve spent all year.

If you’ve even explored the islands, or even the coastline, with a boat and a skipper who is well versed in the geography, history, mythology, and wonderlands that await you on the water far from the shore, this is the equivalent.

Indigenous and Adopted, 100% Florentine

This brilliant band of brothers know every inch of the city.

The founders all grew up here, or very near here. They’ve got hospitality in their blood and on their resumes.

Elme, Moroccan-born and Chianti-raised met Giulio in school. They grew up in wine country with its deep ties to the Florentine hospitality world. The inseparable duo often spent weekends in the “big city.”

Co-founders, Francesco and Alberto have been embedded in the Florentine hospitality and tourism scene for decades. Former restaurant partners, they hired Elme for a job, and Giulio ultimately tagged along.

Despite substantial generational gaps, the four men clicked.

History, Diversity, and Innovation

The decades between them provided a rare synergy. Alberto, who is pushing 60, lived the so-called golden age of Italy—when life was less expensive, and la dolce vita was far more accessible.

Francesco, a late-stage millennial, experienced rapid advances in technology, the shift from lira to euro currency, and the urgent push toward innovation facing every Italian business.

Giulio and Elme represent a modern and more ethnically integrated Florence. They’re also true digital natives and bring a sense of adventure, youthful energy, and insight into the marketing and execution of their tour service.

The Vision

Co-founder, Gulio Bianchi explains:

Wanted to give tourism in Florence an infusion of authentic, Italian hospitality. We all love the city and we know it so well, we created the business to celebrate the place we feel so connected to.

On Teamwork

We’re not perfect, of course. We have our different point of view. But over all, the age gap, and the vastly different experiences work for our brand. We’re not too modern, and not too old-fashioned. It’s a via “di mezzo”, a middle way. It’s harmonious.

Eco-Friendly and Fabulous Fleet

The cars are 100% electric. On a single charge they can run all day. The model is a rehabbed Fiat 500 spiaggina convertible.

Choose from preset tours, for example: the classic, the sunset, the hills, or come with your own ideas and design a customized itinerary. The more information you provide at booking, the more in-depth and personalized your experience will be. Want to try the best ice cream in town? Drinks with a view? Check out Dante’s private chapel?

Let the team know, and they’ll make it happen. They have plenty of tips up their own sleeves too.

Florence Platinum Tours

SITE | @florenceplatinumtours
TEL +39 39227376800
For personalized tours, call or get in touch via the website.

AquaFlor: An Adopted Florentine’s Dream

When AquaFlor founder Mauro Arena first ventured to Florence as a student, he fell instantly for the timeless magic of the city.

A philosopher, dreamer, and natural-born hustler, he found a way to support himself in the city he was determined to make his own.

A native of Puglia, his family had cultivated olives years. Forever enterprising, Arena first came up with the idea to produce scented olive-oil based soaps.

From here, his interest in perfumery took off.

He was particularly struck by the art and aesthetic of the antica officina farmacia Santa Maria Novella’s natural perfumery (also profiled in this piece).

Arena longed to create a space that fused nature and beauty in homage to Florentine’s heritage of perfumery, and to transport visitors through a multi-sensory experience.

In 2009, he opened AquaFlor inside of Palazzo Corsini Antinori Serristori, in the heart of the vibrant Santa Croce district in the heart of Florence.

A masterful exemplar of Renaissance architecture, the palace features two separate courtyards, ornate sculptural elements and elegant porticos. It’s a worth a visit just for the architecture.

AquaFlor is unique among contemporary perfumeries.

In addition to the production of perfumes, home fragrance, and soaps, AquaFlor offers educational workshops and bespoke perfume blending. The entire staff is well-versed and passionate about perfumery, and questions are encouraged.

It’s hard to imagine leaving empty-handed, but there’s something for even the slimmest budget. Delicate ceramic disks imbued with AquaFlor’s signature iris-rose home fragrance, last for ages. At €15, they’re the epitome of approachable luxury.

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Meet Zisis Kapsalis, an effervescent member of the AquaFlor team. He gave his nose a break so we could chat a few minutes about falling in love with Florence, pivoting to a career in perfumery, and where he goes for a cocktail after work. Three tips you don’t want to miss!

Scents of a City

You can’t take Florence with you, but you can absolutely douse yourself, your luggage and your house back home in the essence of it. There’s nothing like the transportive power of scent.

Jasmin Perfume features the rare and delightful variety of Granduca di Toscana jasmine. A history lesson you can smell, the flower arrived as a gift from King Peter II of Portugal to Cosimo III, the Grand Duke of Tuscany, for whom the flower is named. It thrives on the sunny Tuscan slopes and encapsulates Florence’s rich history of royals and pioneering advancements in perfumery.

AquaFlor’s signature home fragrance is built around Iris and Rose. Iris is the official flower of the city and the iconic fleur-di-lys can be found everywhere, from Florentine flags to leather bags, and even sports jerseys.

Roses also have a special spot in the olfactory identity of Florence.

A stunning rose garden across the river features 400 varieties of the fragrant flower. Santa Maria Novella’s legendary aqua di rose (rose water) was originally conceived as a 14^th-century antiseptic to combat the plague. It proved unsuccessful, but the refreshing scent and skin-toning qualities of rose water have stood the test of time.

Home fragrance, Giardino di Boboli, which wafts throughout the halls of the Uffizi Galleries, was also created to honor the Florence’s rich history of perfumery while conveying a multisensory connection the city.

AquaFlor

Borgo Santa Croce, 6 50122
SITE | @aquaflorfirenze
TEL +39 055 2343471
Mon-Sun: 10am – 7pm
For workshop and personalized experienced, call or email.

Lorenzo Villoresi Museum and Boutique

Lorenzo Villoresi maison and museum is located on a peaceful street across the river in the area known as Oltrarno.

Villoresi is a contemporary niche perfumer with a degree in ancient philosophy and philology. Fascinated at an early age with the Middle East, he recalls his parents’ tales of time spent in Cairo, and has traveled extensively for his research, retracing the paths of the Silk Road and the precious spices and scents originating in the East.

He was ultimately struck by a passion for perfumery following a trip to Egypt in the 1980s.

A decade later, he opened his atelier dei profumi, in Florence, and later his maison at the behest of Fendi sisters, Anna and Carla.

In addition to his own line, which is rich with raw ingredients discovered and collected throughout his travels, a star-studded list of bespoke perfumes includes blends for Gucci, Jacqueline Kennedy, Madonna, and Sting.

Artist and intellectual, Villoresi has also written extensively on the culture, history, and techniques of perfumery as well a fascinating dive into the ritual of bathing throughout human history.

Today, his line includes fragrances for the body and home, including candles, scented stones, and potpourri.

A Museum of Scent

The Villoresi museum occupies the former atelier on Via de Bardi. A multisensory wonderland, the museum is less an ode to his brand, than to the magic and artistry of perfumery.

A garden and terrace contain nearly 100 aromatic flowers and plants. The Osmorama scent library offers visitors a whiff of ancient and modern raw materials and synthetic recreations along with historical context, interactive maps and video installations.

Animated guides lead you through the basics of scent creation, and introduce you to some the world’s classic accords including florals, citrus, and spicy, smoky ambers.

*Guided tours are free and offered by appointment only. Be warned, you may leave with a career change in mind, or a few bottles in your bag at the very least.

Lorenzo Villoresi Museum and Boutique

Via de’ Bardi 12 50125 Florence
TEL +39 055 2340715
SITE | @lorenzovilloresi

Book tours by phone or email: info@museovilloresi.it

From Monastery to de’ Medici to Modern Icon

Woven deep within Florence’s rich cultural tapestry, L'Officina Profumo Farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella represents centuries of history and the city’s role in the development of perfumery as we know it.

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Athenian-born and happily adopted Florentine, perfumer Zisis Kapsalis first came to Florence on a study visa. More than 25 years later, he calls the city home.

Sound familiar? I shared with Zisis my story of falling so hard for Rome I moved there.

So, what’s his story?

A renaissance man in the right city, Zisis has certifications in computer science and applied systems, marketing management, and a university degree in history and archaeology.

He arrived in Florence as part of an EU exchange called Leonardo Da Vinci, that provided full-immersion, professional experiences for students from all over Europe.

I initially moved here on for a three-month visa, and during that exchange program I had so many experiences and I fell in love with everything about the city. 25 years ago, Florence was a quite international scene. Now it’s even more so!

I was, and still am fascinated by the mix of heritage, beauty and warm welcome I receive here. By the end of the program, I was absolutely in love and decided to return.

From Marketing Management and Archeology to the Science of scent

In 2018, Kapsalis radically changed course. On a curious whim, he attended professional perfumery and olfactory sciences courses at Mouillettes & Co, an Italian institution that teaches the exclusive Cinquième Sens method.

I took just the week-long course of the same method years ago in Paris. It’s intense, enlightening, and fully immersive. I left the school so enthusiastic about perfumery that for a moment, I considered a career switch.

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Zisis took the leap.

During Pitti Fragrance, an exclusive industry event, Zisis met Nicola Bianchi, the master nose behind a number niche fragrance brands including Optico, Monom, and Cristiana Bellodi.

Kapsalis exudes contagious enthusiasm and a sincere passion for his craft. It’s easy to see why Bianchi invited the burgeoning perfumer to assist him on a collaboration with Aquaflor.

As per their brand ethos, every Aquaflor fragrance, for both body and home, is the fruit of a dynamic team effort. Kapsalis thrived in the collaborative atmosphere.

He has since participated in the development of new scents, collaborations and bespoke perfumes, and leads perfume workshops inside a designated space within the Palazzo Corsini Antinori Serristori that houses Aquaflor.

Scents of Place: Wine, Spirits, and Perfume

Readers of Tastefully, and anyone who has followed my multisensory approach to wine as a transportive experience would not be surprised that perfume falls into my “sense of place” aesthetic.

Kapsalis shares this mentality and brings it to all of his projects. From Chianti Classico to classic cocktails, check out a few of his recent collaborations + a hot tip from me for dining in Chianti country.

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There is a sort of magic in feeling foreign, of stepping out of your life and into a place where you will never fit in. To admire as an outsider, respectfully of course, but free from the constraints of citizenship or societal norms.

Cities and countries unfold before your eyes and bewilder expectations.

Others of us, and I suspect many of my readers, yearn for a connection to the places they visit. You wonder how it would feel to live there, to have your favorite café, to have friends, to say you’re going home at the end of the night.

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Behind the scenes with Florentines.

While I’ve made my home in Rome, far from my native Missouri, the impulse still strikes wherever I go. Speaking multiple languages affords me the privilege of more intimate relationships.

I’ll forgo famous monuments in favor of a second or third conversation. These new and enduring relationships provide a sense of home that I crave, if even temporarily.

The Greek word for hospitality is Φιλοξενία, pronounced, filo-xenía. When broken down into parts, it translates as “friend to the stranger or foreigner.” At the heart of hospitality is the Greek for house and home: σπίτι (spiti).

I’ve spent countless hours in Florence over the last two decades. I’ve knocked down walls and cracked open enough doors to feel at home.

Florentine society is notoriously tough to infiltrate. It is my pleasure to invite you in.

Florence: The Project

According to official reports, fifteen million people visited Florence in 2024.

For a city half the size of Cincinnati, that you can cross on foot in thirty minutes, that’s quite a crowd.

Florence enjoys year-round tourism, but surges in spring and summer. Despite the heat and the hordes, Florence is on everyone’s list.

Naturally, there are guidebooks galore and organized tours to help navigate the crowds and hit the highlights. Innumerable influencers claim to uncover “hidden gems” and celebrate the “unmissable spots.”

I was sad to learn that many of them are charging businesses for inclusion in their hot lists and flashy content.

There are plenty of reliable voices out there too, and I look forward to promoting them as part of this project.

This series relies strictly on local recommendations.

I spoke with native Florentines whose ties to the city extend for centuries, as well as long-time residents who fell in love with Florence and forged their sense of home there.

Among the sources who will be featured in the coming months are restaurant royalty (and literal royalty), heritage artisans, bar managers, architects, event organizers, perfumers, hair stylists, fashion designers, travel consultants, and coffee roasters.

Everyone I spoke to not only offered their recommendations, but connected me to someone who, in their opinion, would round out my experience.

Tastefully Premium Content

Much of the series is available for free. Upgraded subscribers have access to all articles and the full archives, plus premium perks, for example, 15% off Florence Platinum Tours. The enterprising band of brothers know the city inside and out, and they’ll show it to you in a fully electric vintage Fiat 500 convertible.

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Florence is easy to love.

It’s walkable and well-kept, tidy, and teeming with trattorias and wine bars, each one more inviting than the next.

Centuries-old palazzos are packed with enough artwork to fill up a lifetime. Men and women carved out of marble pulse with impossible life. Mannerist paintings will make you cry at the miracle of human emotion sprung from a canvas.

To catch a sunbeam strike from behind a 14th-century bell tower over espresso and Viennese pastries is a memory in the making.

The sweet and heady scent of leather drifts throughout stone streets, courtesy of artisans, some of whom carry the same trade (and the tools) for generations.

The so-called city of flowers hosts one of the world’s oldest apothecaries, where ancient essences and extractions gave rise to modern perfumery. A rare species of jasmine named for Duke Cosimo III climbs walls and fences. Aquaflor perfumery did their best to bottle it.

400 species of roses bloom in a hilltop garden.

There’s a dizzying array of shops, from the glitz of Gucci and ornate Ginori ceramics to the gold and diamond merchants atop Ponte Vecchio. The Ferragamo Museum might convince you to break the bank on a pair shoes with history in the soles.

Curated boutique owners and young designers from all over Italy and the world rub shoulders with landmark brands and traditional artisans. They came to study and stayed, enamored and inspired by the visible and invisible muse that is Florence.

Renegade jewelers pay homage to the city’s royal roots, blending precious stones and silver with playful skulls, oversized fleur-de-lys and strands of enough sparkling glass beads to rival Venice.

The Arno River curls languidly below the stone bridges. To cross over to the district called Oltrarno, literally “across the Arno,” is to slow your pace and feel the breeze more easily.

Boboli and Bardini gardens crown the hilltops. Quintessentially Florentine in style, they’re a flourish of manicured majesty and a great way to walk off a Chianina steak and too much Chianti Classico.

On the walk back down, I know a great spot for a glass of wine, run by two sisters. Subscribe and stay tuned to hear about it.

For the next several months, you’ll find out where the locals go for the best coffee and cocktails. We’ll try and fail to settle the great gelato debate (very strong arguments for the top two). What’s overhyped and what’s absolutely worth it? Who you should know and what to order at his or her restaurant.

This is their Florence. Now it feels like mine. I look forward to sharing it with you.