A Labor of Love

For husband and wife team, Monica Garbini and Marco Tullio Botti, home is where the heart is.

While they do share an official residence, you’ll just as likely find them at Enoteca Cuverie.

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Cuverie looks and feels like it’s been around a lot longer than its (barely) four years. Since opening in July of 2021, it’s become a beloved local gathering place, and consistently surprises and delights lucky tourists who wander by.

The bar occupies a corner spot and adjoining patio on Via di Santa Cecilia, in a 15th-century palazzo.

Original wood-beamed ceilings, terracotta floors, antique glass cases, chunky wood bistro tables, and candlesticks draped in years of red wax all add up to a genuine vintage vibe.

A Family Affair

For Monica, Cuverie is a truly full-circle moment.

She grew up across the river near the Pantheon, where her family owned a restaurant. First opened in 1934, Antonio al Pantheon (Literally: Antonio at the Pantheon) served traditional Roman fare. Garbini’s father’s side hails from the town of Accumoli, a small town outside of Rome, not far from Amatrice, and the legendary birthplace of signature Roman dishes like la gricia and amatriciana.

Officially recognized by the city as a culinary heritage landmark, the restaurant hosted generations of patrons and passersby alike. They’ve since sold, as Monica’s father was getting older, and the area became chaotically overrun by tourism.

Monica scrolls through old photos of photos on her phone. Little remains apart from the original façade. Gone are the spare brick walls dressed up in gold-framed artwork and photo collages of clients, bouquets of artichokes and produce crates stacked out front.

Both Monica and Marco worked there for years.

They’ve known each other as long as they can remember. Childhood friends from the neighborhood, they’ve shared multiple landmarks including Catholic confirmation, and getting their drivers’ license.

In a twist of pure coincidence, they’ll celebrate 25 years as a couple on Valentine’s Day.

(New) Home is Where the Heart is

“Old customers’ of my dad’s place come to us now,” she tells me.

It’s a blend of faithful family patrons, neighborhood friends, and tourists,” says Marco. Sometimes we get repeat visits—a rarity in a city with so many places to explore—they come back when they return to Rome.”

In the time since I walked in, they’ve hugged old friends, loaned a phone charger to a pair of tourists, and texted a local regular to come keep us (me) company in what may or may not be an orchestrated set-up.

From Pastime to Passion

Monica grew up in the restaurant world, but ultimately pursued a law degree. She stumbled into sommelier certification as a hobby at first, but her passion ultimate refused to be relegated to pastime status. After 15 years of law, she followed her heart.

“I love being interacting with nice people, in cozy easy-going environment. I’m still fascinating by the justice system itself, but those interactions are not nearly as fun.”

For his part, Marco has dabbled in other professions since working at the neighborhood restaurant, but he’s always loved the business, especially discovering local products.

Even the aperitivo snacks are thoughtful: Taggiasche olives from the Ligurian riviera, taralli crackers from Puglia, and Roman-style schrocchiarella—wafer-thin and crispy flatbread—from a bakery up the road.

CUVERIE. Est. 2021

Cuverie comes from the French word for barrel cellar, where wineries leave the wines to age before bottling. More poetically, the name reflects their long road to opening.

Originally the duo had planned to set up shop in Cannes, France. At the time, however, Monica’s family restaurant was still working, and Marco admits the idea of leaving Rome didn’t feel right. Born and raised, ride or die Romans will tell you, “Roma è Roma. Rome is Rome.”

They visited another four places settling on their currently location, which was understandably love at first sight, but Covid-19 hit soon after. It would take another year before they could start renovations.

Local Flavor

Four years in, they’ve found their footing and a loyal following of friends, neighbors, and tourists. It’s easy to see why people keep coming back.

As Monica says, “Our vision is to convey to our customers the passion and work we’ve put into this place, create an atmosphere where people can have a talk to each other, other easily, naturally. Great wine makes everything better—you can explain what is behind the bottle, that the culture, the history, huge labor if love of the winemakers.”

The list includes 250 wines by the bottle, mostly Italian and some French. They’ve also included plenty of local Lazio wines, and predominately small family producers.

By-the-glass you’ll find around 20 labels, red, white, rosé and sparkling, on constant rotation.

Wine and Spirits

In addition, Cuverie has curated a selection of over 50 artisan gins, along with spirits from all over the world.

Spritz lovers take note!

Monica and Marco have mastered the classic and all its variations including a Sakura Spritz, made with Sakura cherry-scented Mancino vermouth and the Mastiha Spritz, with a rare Greek spirit made from distilled sap from the Mastic shrub.

Food and Wine

Wine and Food belong together.

Monica and Marco worked with consulting chef Paolo Borgese (Grand Hotel Parco dei Principi and Enoteca Capranica ‘Collegio’) to create a varied yet approachable menu.

Enjoy charcuterie and bruschetta appetizers, delicate seafood crudo, beef tartar, meatballs, smoked duck breast with pears, and even a few canons from la cucina romana, like puntarelle salad (in season) and Roman-style artichokes.

“In the beginning, our menu was quite small, “ Monica says. The goal now is to have a variety of dishes to pair with virtually anything you drink.”

Cuverie

Via Santa Cecilia, 1, 00153
TEL +39 06 8380 6268
enotecacuverie.it
@enoteca_cuverie
Mon-Tue / Thu-Sat: 12:00-11:30pm

Do Italians Do it Better?

Italians are known for their aspirational for their work-life balance and pleasure-seeking approach to life. Fact or fiction?

I asked Roman residents to define balance and harmony in their professional and personal lives. Points in common, many of them bring balance to their own lives through art and creativity.

Then just for fun, I asked them what they ate yesterday.

Cristina Di Venanzio: Medical Physicist

I work in a hospital in the field of radiation, both imaging and therapeutic. I practice and teach dance on the side.

How do balance and harmony apply to your profession?

In my work, balance is knowing how to maintain the right space between rationality and science and empathy for patients' suffering.

Harmony, on the other hand, is knowing how to create and maintain a healthy, humane, and cooperative environment among colleagues.

And in your personal life?

Balance is the fine thread that connects work, family, and my passion for dance.
Harmony lies in the transition from one to another. It’s the ability to find space and dedicate the right attention to everything and everyone.

What did you eat yesterday?

Breakfast: avocado toast
Lunch: beef-based “sushi” for example: beef carpaccio or crispy guanciale maki, from a creative new restaurant in my neighborhood called Fassangue
Dinner: Chickpea and spinach meatballs, chocolate gelato

Mara Lastretti: Psychologist, Psychotherapist, PhD in Neuroscience and Psychiatry

I’m deeply about passionate about my work and do my best to offer an approach to psychology that surprises.It sidesteps conventional treatment to create connections, networks, and new opportunities. Above all, my aim to help people see more truly see themselves.

On Harmony and Balance

I’d like to share a metaphor that I use often during psychotherapy. It’s rooted in very special memory, my grandfather’s old briarwood radio. This family heirloom is a true reflection of balance and harmony both in my professional and personal life.

Its warm and unique sound represents a perfect synthesis of materials, quality, and finely tuned adjustments—a delicate balance of elements capable of transforming a set of components into something bigger, richer, more alive.

As psychotherapist, I see balance or equilibrium as the “right adjustment” of the multidimensional aspects of the psyche: emotions, thoughts, actions, and relations.

An ability to find stability amid a world of chaos and contradiction without being overpowered. Balance isn’t stillness, but flexibility. It allows us to respond to even the most challenging events while staying centered.

Harmony, on the other hand, is the result of that well-orchestrated balance: it is the feeling that all parts of oneself—desire, values, emotions—sound together like symphony, even with a few imperfect notes.

It is a state of feeling connected as opposed to divided or struggling. Harmony is the fruit of an evolutionary process, a continual dialogue between our interior and exterior worlds.

How do you apply these concepts to your own life?

Balance means finding space for every part of me—welcoming the needs of others as much as my own, without neglecting or isolating myself.

It is a constant dance between duties and pleasures, between activity and rest, between work and affection.

Harmony, on the other hand, is that feeling of stillness that arises when my deepest values are reflected in daily choices, when my actions “sound” in tune with who I really am.

Just like my grandfather’s old radio, the perfect sound is more than just the tuning of the instrument. It is the ability to find one’s true tone in a world voices, noises, and dissonances. It is a constant work of adjustment and tuning. Therein lies the magic of our own personal alchemy.

What did you eat yesterday?

Breakfast: rye toast with olive oil from Puglia
Pranzo: zuppa di ceci (chickpea soup)
Dinner: I ate with friends, which made it nicer even if it wasn’t the healthiest. We had Cesar salad, chicken nuggets with BBQ sauce, and paired them with red wine.

Giulia Ferrari: Immigration and Citizenship Lawyer

At work, do my best to apply what I learned during my classical studies. The ancient Greeks called it mesotes (μεσότης), “the right middle” or what we know of as The Golden Mean.

It means to strive for a constant balance of our actions, especially regarding ethics and virtues. Finding balance in my field means not betraying oneself.

There’s very little harmony in the courtrooms, nor can you find it by writing an appeal sitting at your computer…and that is why I do theater on the side.

I think it’s easier to find harmony in all art forms. As for balance, I subscribe to what was said earlier: I am in constant search of it in my personal and daily life as well.

What did you eat yesterday?

Breakfast: espresso macchiato
Lunch: fettucine with ragù (no wine because I was going back to the office).
Dinner: Okonomiyaki. It’s a bit like a frittata. (Japanese readers please forgive me!).

Giovanni Midali: Personal Trainer, Athletic and Mental Wellness Coach (hobbyist photographer)

Balance is never static, but dynamic process of constant fine-tuning. It is cultivating a deep awareness of the different areas of life—physical, mental, emotional, social and spiritual—and distributing our energy there in an intentional way to avoid depletion in one area at the expense of others.

It is the ability to navigate between challenges and opportunities, maintaining a balanced perspective and adapting our strategies in the moment. It includes the ability to say “yes” to what nourishes and “no” to what depletes, creating space for personal growth and long-term well-being.

Harmony

Harmony is the natural consequence of balance. The feeling of inner coherence and deep peace that arises from the awareness of living in tune with one's values, goals and aspirations.

It is the ability to find a positive flow between different areas of life, where the different parts complement and support each other, creating a synergy that amplifies well-being. It includes the ability to accept imperfection, to learn from mistakes and to find beauty and meaning in challenges.

In summary, for me, balance is the how and harmony is the result. Balance is the active process of managing the different areas of life, while harmony is the resulting feeling of well-being, serenity and wholeness.

How about in your daily life?

I’ve been following the same guidelines in my daily life for nearly 20 years: balance of training and rest, learning, mental and physical relaxation. Harmony and balance at the table are essential for clarity and focus. Through experimentation, anyone can reach a state of stillness and a healthy and balanced life.

Check out Giovanni’s travel photography.

What did you eat yesterday?

Breakfast: Greek yogurt and fruit
Lunch: rice, seasonal vegetables, humus, eggs
Dinner: seitan in sauce, roasted potatoes, salad and egg whites

Alessandro Vassilas: Architect, Entrepreneur and hobbyist painter

I consider balance it a political act, it matures only with experience and not with temperament or thought. Balance comes from sharing and openness to diversity.

Having a comparison, a foothold that allows you balance both geometrically and philosophically.

Architecture and Philosophy

The more points of support you have, the more comparisons exist, the more union there is between points, that is, between people, and the more balance is achieved.

Equilibrium can be achieved between elements that are different from each other, or with different weights or different loads.

Elements like beautiful or ugly, right or left, man or woman if they are predisposed to union and change. Where they find points in common they create harmony.

Harmony originates as a musical term, but harmony can be achieved with oneself when we find balance among the elements and factors of life.

For You Personally

I’ve motivated my studies, an awareness and understanding of differences and excess. The choices I make in my work translate into my daily life in an effort to find the balance between people and in the world.

What did you eat yesterday?

Breakfast: Moroccan avocado juice, a small piece of cheese, a cappuccino, and a second coffee two hours later
Lunch: Two eggs, salad, an orange
Dinner: A suppli ( Roman-style fried-rice ball), anchovy meatballs, sauteéd chicory, two glasses of white wine (Vermentino and Ribolla Gialla)

For Mimmo Mancini, 2025 started with a Champagne pop and never stopped.

The certified sommelier and experienced wine bar host just opened his latest venture, Beverino.

Located north of the city center in the Montesacro neighborhood, Beverino Vineria features small production family-owned wineries and focuses on natural wines.

As Mimmo says, It’s more than just a job, my passion for wine allows me to connect with people and to offer them wines they haven’t tried before, wine made in the vineyard, not [just] in the cellar.

I see wine as a thread uniting people, places, and stories. I collaborate with small wineries that follow every stage of production from the ground to the glass, authentic wines that respect the land and nature.

Before Beverino

Mimmo hails from Puglia, but has called Rome home for 20 years now.

He comes from a restaurant background and trained in hospitality. A certified sommelier and Master of Wine, before opening Beverino, Mimmo operated beloved local wine bars in Pigneto and Rome’s Quartiere Africano.

Neighborhood Vibes

Mimmo chose his latest space in the micro-neighborhood of Sacco Pastore, within the larger Montesacro area.

North of the city center, Montesacro is well connected, and exceedingly green. The neighborhood has attracted young professionals and artists for decades. In recent years, Piazza Sempione, its massive main square, and the surrounding area has seen a surge of new restaurants, bars, and cafés.

Sacco Pastore is still on the quiet side, but according to Mimmo, the youthful dynamic extends here too. “There’s a great energy here too, and we’re excited to new breathe new life into the neighborhood.”

How do the concepts of balance and harmony apply to wine?

For me, wine is balanced when each of its components, for example, acidity, body, and aromas merge into a sincere and satisfying sensory experience. It represents the art of finding a natural balance, just as it happens in life.

But wine also creates harmony. It becomes the glue for moments of sharing, spending time together and creating a network of authentic relationships.

Each bottle is a narrative that unites those who produced it with those who choose it and taste it together, allowing us to celebrate the pleasure of conviviality and dialogue.

Can you expand on harmony as it applies to conviviality and human relationships?

At my vineria Beverino, we start with wine but it doesn’t end there.

Wine is a tool for connection, a catalyst for laughter, storytelling and can launch new friendships.

Whether it’s the subtle effervescence of a naturally sparkling wine (think pét-nat), or the intense aromas of robust red, or the fresh vibrance of a white wine, the experience goes beyond the glass.

When people get together to explore new aromas and flavors and hear stories about the winemakers, they learn more about dedicated craftsmanship behind the bottle, and love and dedication that goes into the wine they are enjoying. This enhances the pleasure of the experience.

It sounds like you’ve found a work-life balance.

For me the balance and harmony of wine reflect same qualities we can all aspire to in life: finding the right balance between work and pleasure, between man and nature, tradition and innovation. It’s all connected.

What’s the best wine pairing you’ve had lately?

Last night some friends and I had cotoletta alla Milanese, a Milanese-style veal cutlet, pairing with a naturally sparkling rosé wine from Vin Viandante, made from local, indigenous red variety, Cesanese.

The earthy flavors of the wine allowed the delicate veal to shine while balancing the oily quality of the crispy breading. Most of all, as always, I do my best to pair the things I like with the people I love.

Check out more expert food and wine pairings from Mimmo here.

Beverino Vineria

Via Vallarsa, 26, 00141 Roma RM
TEL +39 320 156 8465
@ beverino_vineria
Mon-Sat: 10:30-2pm / 5-11pm

The party drink par excellence, New Year’s Eve is the perfect time for a Champagne refresh. There’s plenty to learn about France’s signature sparkling wine. I’ll hit the high points and FAQS.

As always, my goal is to give you something to talk about while you drink it. If sub-appellations and soil types are more up your ally, please let me know in the comments. I can talk about limestone all day!

Why do we Celebrate with Champagne?

Bubbly is synonymous with special occasions: New Years’ Eve parties, engagements and weddings, housewarmings, graduations and general good news.

Even in our under-21 days, sparkling apple cider was a frequent stand-in at high school proms. So, when did sparkling wine become the emblem of festivity?

NB: This article is about Champagne. Not Prosecco. Apples and oranges and to each her own.

For more on the difference and to go deeper on sparkling wine in general, check out Day 5 of my video series, ‘21 Days to Wine’ for more on all things sparkly.

I don’t do live events these days, but I still offer virtual wine tasting and custom wine education on zoom via my website. There are no stupid wine questions.

Winter is looming. A cozy night in with a bottle of wine and me talking out of your laptop screen costs less than a flight to Puerto Rico. You won’t get tan, but you will learn something that lasts a lot longer than a Caribbean glow. Just saying!

A Brief History of Bubbly

The Champagne today, or more technically, the Méthode Champenoise (the Champagne Method) is one of history’s happy accidents, like chocolate chip cookies and tarte tatin, and America.

For centuries, Burgundy was the most highly prized wine in France, but the winemakers of Champagne, just north of Burgundy were eager to get their name in the game.

Unfortunately (or fortunately) nature got in the way. When temperature dropped early in the season, fermentation in the cellars came to a halt, leaving still-intact yeast cells inside the wine bottles.

With the warm and sunny spring, the yeast came back to life with vigor.

Quick science: with alcoholic fermentation comes carbon dioxide, and bottles started to blow from the pressure.

Champagne is still wine that has some yeast and sugar added back in to cause a second fermentation, and tightly capped to keep those bubbles in the bottle.

The Cloistered Guardians of the Vine

Monasteries have historically kept wine growing and production alive throughout the Dark Ages and wartime.

Believe it or not, back in the 17th Century, Benedictine monk, Dom Pérignon was actually working on how to reduce effervescence in the wines of Champagne. He also studied the ideal grape varieties and pruning techniques to extract more elegant flavors.

Dom was one of the first to encourage the use of red grapes (primarily Pinot Noir), with a short press on the skins to add complexity to the assemblage (blend).

Three Main Champagne Grapes

Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Pinot Meunier. An additional four—Arbanne, Pinot Gris, Petit Meslier, and Pinot Blanc—have fallen by the wayside.

Most Champagne is a blend, but if you see Blanc de Blancs it’s strictly Chardonnay. Blanc de Noirs means it’s Pinot Noir and/or Meunier vinified without skin contact.

Blame the British for the Bubbly Craze

Faithful fans of the wines of Champagne, when bottles arrived on English shores and began their re-fermentation process in warmer weather, the fizz was met with fanfare, and soon became known as a desirable trait.

In 1662, the English scientist Christopher Merret cracked the code on what exactly was happening inside the bottles and determined that the addition of sugar prior to bottling could produce a build-up of carbon dioxide pressure in just about any bottle.

How to Keep Champagne Bottles from Exploding

The English loved their bubbly French wines so much, they developed stronger, thicker glass bottles to withstand the pressure.

Nowadays most sparkling wine bottles are built to last, but try not to shake things up too much, and definitely don’t leave your bottles in the freezer for too long. If you do opt for the freezer, wrap a wet towel around your bottle to hasten the chill.

On that note, what’s the fastest way to chill Champagne?

The ideal serving temperature for Champagne is 43°- 47°F (6-8° C).

The drier and younger it is, the cooler you want it for optimal fizz and bright fresh flavors. Vintage Champagne has more ample aromas, like caramel and buttered toast, so it can warm up a little and still taste magnificent.

The most efficient way to chill sparkling wine is an ice bucket and salt water. More quick science: salt lowers the freezing point of water, which melts the cubes and gets that ice bath, well, cold as ice.

Champagne Charms the Royal Courts of Europe and Beyond

And back to history.

Not be outdone by the British, the French, starting with Philippe II, Duke of Orléans, who served the sparkling wine at his nightly feasts, assumed the trend. By the mid-18th Century, Paris was abuzz with bubbly, and Champagne growers began to focus more heavily on the production of fizzy wine.

European royalty picked up on the trend as well. Champagne traveled with soldiers during the Napoleonic Wars, courtesy of Champagne merchant Charles-Henri Heidsieck, who was prepared to make sweeping sales regardless of the victors.

This is very likely the advent of Champagne’s status as a celebratory beverage. Napoleon himself famously declared “Champagne! In victory one deserves it, in defeat one needs it.”

Champagne landed in the happy hands of Prussian Kings, the Russian Tsar, the Royal Prince of Sweden and Norway, and as far as the royal courts of China and Siam (now modern Thailand). When the Russians occupied France, they ransacked Champagne cellars as tribute (who could blame them?) and later became one of Champagne’s largest markets.

Why Are Ships Christened with Champagne?

The use of Champagne as a token of battle victory may explain why ships are christened by breaking a bottle of bubbly before departing the harbor.

The tradition was first recorded in the late 19th Century, most notably with Queen Victoria’s christening of the HMS Royal Arthur. Superstition dictates that the bottle must break for good luck, whereas an intact bottle bodes poorly for the crew.

This ritual likely explains why athletes and race car drivers pour Champagne on themselves, and even recreational boat purchases are christened with a splash of Champagne, or something similarly sparkling.

Why is Sparkling Wine Luxurious?

During the 19th century, the idea of Champagne as a symbol of prestige trickled down to American and British high society as well, cementing the bubbly beverage as something reserved for the rich and for splurge-worthy events.

Birthday parties and anniversaries and retirement parties all call for something special, so sparkling wine it is.

Browse Champagne gifts for your next occasion.

Shine Bright like a Diamond: The Glimmer of the Shimmer

Could it also have something to do with Champagne’s diamond-like shimmer?

Maybe. Modern pop culture teaches us that everything from jewel-encrusted gold and high fashion labels to embossed bottles of wine and spirits à la Louis Roederer premiere Champagne Cristàl and Hennessy VS Cognac represent success and the highlife.

Why is Champagne served in a flute glass?

Because it’s pretty.

You can watch all those tiny bubbles (perlage) dancing in your glass and catch the light glinting off your white gold wine.

The narrow opening, which funnels aromas toward your nose. This mechanism makes the most of young, fresh subtle Champagne notes like citrus and lightly toasted bread.

Vintage Champagne, like aged red wines, need more room to breathe. Use a tulip-shaped glass, or go old school with a wide, shallow coupe.

Champagne wasn’t always dry and crisp. Its original iteration it was sweet and aromatic and worthy of wider cup.

What’s the best food to pair with Champagne?

Fried chicken is a classic pairing. The brightness and bubbles balance out any extra unctuousness, which cleans your palate and allows the spices and earthy flavor of the chick to sour. I’d level up with a Champagne rosé for extra balance and a hint of sweetness, as fried chicken can be salty.

Champagne also tastes great with aged and waxy cheeses like Mimolette and Gouda for exactly the same reason. Bubbles clear away fattiness leaving room for flavors to pop.

With caviar, skip Champagne

On its own it’s a vibe as much as it is a beverage. Celebratory and luxurious.

That being said, skip it with caviar. It’s too harsh. The same rush of fizz that skims the chicken fat from your palate will wash away caviar’s delicate and fascinating flavors. I’m a purist when it comes to caviar. Vodka. Straight up

Do we really need an excuse to pop a bottle of Champagne?

As Lily Bollinger, (1899-1977), of Bollinger Champagne said:

“I drink Champagne when I’m happy and when I’m sad. Sometimes I drink it when I’m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. I trifle with it if I’m not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise, I never touch it―unless I’m thirsty.”

*Tastefully may earn commissions from qualifying purchases.

Bakeries abound in Rome, from local favorites to destination joints known for their specialties. Romoli e Regoli are the city’s go-to spots for cream-stuffed brioche, Maritozzi. Pompi is the place for tiramisu. Antico Forno Roscioli, Forno Campo de’ Fiori, and Bonci reign for meter-long pizza bianca (Rome’s signature focaccia). Bonci makes legendary pizza by-the-slice as well.

But ask anyone about biscotti and Biscottificio Innocenti it is.

Biscotti is Italian for cookies in general, not just the oblong, nut-studded ones we think of in English.

Read on Tastefully: Baked to the Gods: A Treatise on Holiday Baking

Biscottificio: Italian for cookie factory

The suffix ficio comes from the Latin; ficium, a derivative of facĕre: “to do or make.” These days the word is used more widely to describe a venue, for example Vinificio, a hip little natural wine bar in Rome’s Testaccio neighborhood.

Biscottificio Innocenti lives up to its original definition.

Today they produce all kinds of savory and sweet treats, but they made their name with biscotti and earned themselves the reputation as the Rome essential supplier.

The bakery is located on Via della Luce, a quiet street in Rome’s Trastevere, neighborhood. Trastevere has grown increasingly popular in recent decades (read: inundated by English-speakers, touristy, and raucous by night), yet picturesque and postcard-worthy areas remain.

Scent Memory Lane

23 years ago, when I first moved to Rome, I lived one minute away from Innocenti. I could smell the place before I ever found it, and my jaw still drops when I round the corner today.

The trees are taller and bougainvillea rampant. But it’s the walk down scent-memory lane, that sends my thoughts ricocheting to my early twenties, in a new city, in a new language. In love, and always hungry.

Originally opened by Sesto Innocenti in 1940, the bakery has been family-owned and operated ever since. At the height of holiday season I was lucky enough to wander in and catch his granddaughter Stefania, in a rare moment of calm.

The calm is fleeting, and Stefania’s eyes dart between a steady stream of panettone loaves, and the clock. Her son is running late, but she’s happy to answer my questions, and apologizes for turning her back to me sometimes.

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An Oven of Epic Proportions

In 1960, Sesto’s son Enzo and his wife, Anna, invested in massive new tunnel oven, 14 meters long with a built-in conveyer belt. As Stefania tells it, her mother, Anna, who married into the family, had a brain for the bakery business.

She was the one who convinced the family to invest in the five-million lire monstrosity that had to be shipped in parts from the factory in Milan and assembled inside the shop.

Their neighbors referred the oven as the Il Mastodonte Giallo (The Yellow Mastodon). They worried it might break down and wondered how the family would pay it off.

To that regard, Innocenti signed promissory notes “by the meter” to cover the costs. It is more than paid off.

Check out this short video featuring the oven, the historic space and Stefania (in Italian).

Sora Anna, La Biscottara

A hybrid of signora (ma’am) and sister (as in nun, seeing as the city is crawling with them), sora is an affectionately Roman way of describing a woman. “La biscottara” with biscotti at its root, is a distinctively roman way of describing someone based on their trade or expertise.

Stefania describes her mother’s passion and vision for the bakery.

Anna took risks, starting with the oven. The conveyor belt system works on a timer. In the kitchen, bakers insert trays of cookies, tarts, or cakes. They use a mechanic’s light to peer down the tunnel and check the status.

Confections roll through at precisely calculated temperature and exit on the other side of the wall, warm and ready to be served to the public.

The public-facing space of the bakery has 1970s vintage vibes and is dominated by the butter yellow oven. Faded photos with upturned corners line the walls. They offer glimpses of loyal clientele and their dogs (Innocenti is pet-friendly), alongside news clippings, packaging and signage from decades ago.

Stefania deftly captures cakes and cookies as they reach the end of the belt and moves them first to cooling racks and finally the displace cases in the front window.

Her father, Enzo, served as a naval officer. He handled ordering and administration expertly, and they referred to him as the “captain of the oven.”

But she is emphatic about her mom.

Sora Anna believed they could do more than basic tea biscuits and butter cookies. She expanded their repertoire to include more complicated delicacies lie pizzette (mini pizzas), rustici (stuffed little savory tarts), and more classics from the Italian cookie cannon.

Biscotti Bestsellers

Today, Innocenti turns out 70+ products.

Sweets include plain, fruit, and chocolate-filled butter cookies, puff pastries, almond biscotti (the crunchy ones we know), baci di dama (lady kisses) tiny sandwich cookies stuffed with pistachio, almond meringues topped with cherry, flat and crunchy lingue di gatto (cat’s tongues), miniature crostatas, and perhaps their most famous creation: brutti ma buoni, which translates to ugly but tasty.

The slightly misshapen little mouthfuls of meringue, laced with roasted local hazelnut have a cult following. For a recipe, click here.

They also produce savory tarts and crackers, and seasonal essentials like panettone at Christmas, and frappe, an Easter sweet made from strands of dough, baked or fried to a curly crisp and doused in powdered sugar.

Like Mother, Like Daughter

While Stefania credits her mother with most of Innocenti’s innovation, she has taken steps in new directions.

She’s experimented with mother yeast starters and ancient, indigenous grains as well as swapped out margarine and oil for butter in a few recipes. She says her clients are grateful for the lactose-free options.

For now, her challenge is getting through the holidays.

With no son in sight, and the sunlight slipping away, I wrap up my questions with an impossible one: which biscotti most genuinely represents Innocenti as an establishment?

Stefania laughs and lists of at least ten of them. She fills a small paper sack and tells me to decide for myself.

In exchange, I offer her a bag of my own homemade cookies, orange-scented and heart-shaped with a vanilla glaze. She plans to put them under the tree, but I’m wary they’ll stay fresh for another week. Stefania takes one look and promises me they will.

This is a developing story. We have plans to expand the interview after the holiday rush. Stay tuned.

Biscottificio Innocenti

Via della Luce, 21 00153 Rome
TEL +39 39 06 580 3926
@biscottificioinnocenti
https://biscottificioartigianoinnocenti.wordpress.com/

There’s Nothing Like Wine with Eleni

Ask anyone in the Greek wine industry and they know her by name. Many consider her a friend.

A champion of small wineries, lesser-known local flavors, and indigenous grape varieties, Eleni Kefalopoulou lives up to her name.

Greek for torch, or bright one, Eleni sheds light on pioneering winemakers who might otherwise fade in the shadow of commercial producers and conglomerates.

When I first landed in Athens, eager to test my fledgling Greek skills (Συγγνώμη παιδιά! Sorry guys), taste Greek wines, and meet women in the wine business, more people than I can count pointed me in her direction.

Storytelling Comes Naturally to Eleni

The twists and turns of her own life story include an education in civil engineering, music and drama, and a lengthy career as a television, film, and voice actress.

It’s no wonder she found her way to wine, a world as magical and transportive as it is delicious, and populated with characters.  

She has worked as a journalist (and still does) for premium the wine magazine Oinoxoos, and publications like Athens Insider and national newspaper, Kathimerini.

A true connoisseur, Eleni is relentlessly curious and eager to share everything she has learned. Her enthusiasm is contagious. She speaks with a combination of reverence and affection about the men and women who grow and produce the wine she serves.

Wine with Eleni: The Bar

The wine bar is an extension of Eleni’s wine education and consulting business, which she runs year-round.

As a mainly outdoor venue, she operates the bar seasonally. Read: if it’s nice enough to sit outside, the doors are open. She usually usually closes sometime in November and reopens in spring.

Eleni shuffles up the wine list every four or five days so that the venue functions not only as a gathering spot for wine lovers, but also a place to learn something new.

From day one,  she vowed to create the purest form of a wine bar: only wine and water, no beer, and no additional refreshments. So far, she has stayed true to her word, with the exception of some occasional taralli crackers to cleanse the palate.

The bar itself is barely 10 square meters is size. Marked by a single wine barrel, it’s tucked a few steps below sidewalk level on a quiet corner in the Koukaki district, not far from the Acropolis Museum.

Tables spill out into a triangular, tree-lined plaza, filled with faithful locals and curious and discerning wine drinkers. Eleni can be found nightly. She circulates and works the “room” al fresco. The embodiment of hospitality, Eleni will happily sit down and chat every time she fills your glass.

The Monasteries of Mount Anthos: Guardians of the Vine

Her latest passion project is a book lovingly dedicated the monks of Mount Anthos, who havesafeguarded winemaking for more 1000 years on what is known as the ‘holy mountain’ of the Chalkidiki Peninsula.

They’ve preserved techniques and truly indigenous wine varieties that trace their roots to antiquity.

As tradition dictates, women are not allowed to enter the region, as the monks are strictly cloistered. To find out how Eleni pulled that off, you’ll have to buy the book.

Better, sit down for a glass of wine with her next time you visit Athens.

Wine With Eleni

Misaraliotou 20, Athina 117 42, Greece
TEL +306934125839
@winewitheleni
http://www.winewitheleni.com/

Harvest with Eleni

The first time we met, Eleni taught me the Greek word for wine harvest trygos (Τρύγος).

Amid the throes of a holiday-issue magazine deadline, she was kind enough to lend her voice to my series on harvest season for the launch of Tastefully. As someone who is also familiar with deadlines, I am forever grateful.

Read on for a taste of Greek harvest through Eleni’s eyes.

What does harvest mean to you?

Harvest is the circle of life, the cycle of nature as it includes death an rebirth. In Greece, the grape harvest has always been of such great importance that a word exists exclusively for it.  

Trygos (τρύγος) refers only to the picking grapes destined for winemaking, and now other crops or produce.  

Tell me about your experiences with the harvest.

I’ve participated in several harvests in Greece, especially at small wineries. There’s pleasure in everything, from the the picking of the grapes to everything everything that happens next in the winery.

However, as we say in Greece, trygos (harvest) is like a war.

Everyone must work together and stay on high alert as plenty can go wrong at any moment. I felt the same joy and agony a few years ago while harvesting in Champagne with some more small wine producers, not the huge maisons. 

The lunches we enjoyed after harvesting in these wineries, who opened up old vintages of Champagne were really extraordinary.

Are there any Greek traditions for harvest?

There are so many traditions for harvest!

It has been always a social gathering. Just a few decades ago, even the schools would close so that children could participate. The village priest would come to the vineyards to recite a prayer before the harvest. In return, the first basket of grapes collected was dedicated to the local church as a blessing.

Every day following the grape harvest, winery owners prepare lunch for the workers. The final day is always a party with a lot of singing, dancing and drinking, of course. It’s not only for the workers, but it’s also a chance for the local residents to celebrate and bestow their best wishes on the wineries.

And of course, you eat…

The food during these festivals depends on the area where the harvest takes place. It’s always local specialties. Definitely plenty of pies stuffed with different fillings and roasted or oven-baked goat or lamb. Crete is especially famous for harvest celebrations that last for days!

From what you’ve heard, how was harvest this year?

Unfortunately, the 2024 harvest had a lot of problems. It was a very challenging year for the growers. They had to work extremely hard to protect the vines. Droughts and high temperatures destroyed large portions of many vineyards.

Harvest began two to three weeks earlier than usual, the earliest it’s ever happened. Most wineries had 20-30% fewer grapes, and there are places that lost up to 50%.

How Do You Feel About the 2024 Vintage?

Thankfully, hot and dry conditions prevented disease, so the grapes were very healthy and concentrated (ripe and juicy). So I think we ‘ll see less quantity, but wines of great quality. Higher altitude vineyards will produce some of the best ones I believe. Unfortunately, prices with climb too.

As for Greek wines, what should we pay attention to now (2023 vintage and prior)?  

2023 was a challenging year as well, but Greek producers managed to have good, balanced whites with nice acidity as well as fine reds. Look for Xinomavro and Limniona red wines, but give them 2-3 years.

And 2024?

Pay attention to Santorini. Assyrtiko with its arid climate and volcanic terroir, yielded only half of the usual quantity. The price of the grapes was extremely high, so we expect very expensive wines. But Santorini Assyrtiko is always a shining star.

What are some Greek wines that feel very autumnal to you?

Autumn is the best season in Greece!

I would recommend a fine Vidiano (a white wine variety) from Crete, for example, Klima from Karavitakis Winery or a light-bodied red, like Aspela from Bosinakis Winery. They’ve produced the first red wine ever made from Moschofilero grapes, which are traditionally vinified as dry, aromatic white wines.

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From weeks of toil in the vineyard and cellar to time-honored traditions, triumphs and travails, three wineries from different parts of the world share their feelings on harvest and reflect on the 2024 vintage.

Meet the Wineries

Bedell Cellars (USA)

Located on Long Island, New York’s North Fork, Bedell leads the charge in sustainability and regenerative farming. Uniquely challenging for its sandy, coastal soil and exposure to North Atlantic elements, winemaker, Rich OIsen-Harbich’s team embraces technology and experimentation while taking their cues from nature.

One of the only wineries in the world utilizing entirely indigenous yeasts, Bedell strives to infuse each of their wines with a sense of place (think: cool and salty Atlantic breezes) while maintaining the distinct personality of a huge variety of grapes including Malbec, Merlot, Verdejo and Melon de Bourgogne, among others.

Bedell is sold and served in New York State and the surrounding areas. The winery also ships (where permitted) in North America.

Domaine Skouras SA (Greece)

Wine courses through the veins of the Skouras family.

Winery founder, George Skouras was born in Argos, in Greece’s Peloponnese, an area with a 3,000-year-old legacy of winegrowing. Skouras was ultimately captivated by local wine production while studying in Dijon, France, the heart of the Burgundy appellation.

He completed his oenology degree, supplemented by experiences throughout France, Italy, and Greece. He returned home determined to produce world-class wines with the indigenous grapes of the Nemea region, a stunning mountainous terrain just north of Argos.

He began with the local red, Agiorgitiko, in assemblage with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine, Megas Oenos (grand wine), was released in 1986 and conquered hearts and palates throughout Greece, Europe, and eventually overseas.

The iconic label represents the potential of Agiorgitiko to produce elegant and ageable wines with complex character as well Skouras’ commitment to indigenous flavors and excellence.

Today, George’s son Dimitris carries the torch in the vineyard and cellar. The winery has since expanded to include parcels in nearby Mantineia. Equally mountainous and sun-drenched, Mantineia is home to the Moschofilero grape, a pink-skinned aromatic variety known for opulent aromas of pink rose, white flowers, citrus zest, and stone fruit.

Dimitris employs innovative techniques during fermentation. He’s constantly experimenting with oak barrels, stainless steel tanks, and amphora casks to exalt the qualities of both local and international grape varieties. The ultimate example is their Peplo Rosé. It’s made from equal parts Agiorgitiko, Syrah, and Moschofilero, each of them fermented and aged in a different method and material.

Every bottle of Skouras wine embodies the winery’s connection to their land and embrace of innovation.

USA-based readers can find Megas Oenos and select labels on wine.com as well as stores with a fine Greek selection.

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L’Avventura Vineyards

L'Avventura (Italy)

Avventura, in Italian, is a fabulous word. It means:

An unexpected event or circumstance, a risky venture,  a romantic tryst.

In the case of this young and determined winery, all apply.

In late summer of 2015, Stefano Matturro and his wife Gabriella happened on a tiny parcel of land (3.5 hectares/ 8 and a half acres) for sale just south of Rome. The township of Piglio is the heart and soul of Cesanese production, the Lazio region’s legacy red variety, named for Caesar, and thought to be in existence since 26 AD.

The Monti Ernici stretch of the Apennine Mountains acts as a protective barrier, trapping Mediterranean breezes and mitigating the blazing sunshine. Grapes thrive on volcanic-tinged clay and limestone soil. Cesanese del Piglio is Lazio’s only DOCG red wine, a top-quality classification.

Cesanese is known for intense notes of violet, black cherry, and corbezzolo, a spiny lichi-like tree fruit. When aged, especially in oak, Cesanese takes on expansive and rustic aromas of smoky leather, dried fruit, and wild herbs.

L’Avventura has since expanded their territory. They produce several versions of Cesanese as well as local white, Passerina and a plot of Pinot Nero. They keep it in the family with their daughter Marta, and a host of friends and extended relatives, and have since added olive oil to their repertoire.

Stefano and Gabriella embrace the challenges and joys of winemaking. They call  themselves Produttori di Felicità (happiness-makers). Next time in Rome, consider a visit. L’Avventura will happily accommodate.

Meet the Makers

I spoke with Rich Olsen-Harbich, winemaker at Bedell Cellars, Dimitris Skouras, winemaker at Domaine Skouras, and Stefano Matturro, who founded L’Avventura with his wife Gabriella.

*Greek and Italian have been thoughtfully translated to convey the essence of their words.

What does harvest mean to you?

ROH: The harvest represents the culmination of a year's worth of care, patience, and anticipation. It’s the moment when the North Fork's unique terroir can truly come to life in our wines. Each year, we only get just one chance to capture that natural character—something winemakers have that’s distinct from other crafts like brewing or distilling. That one decision—when to pick—is the most critical of the entire year, and it’s so important as it can’t be undone. It's when we truly set the stage for the wine’s character, as ripeness plays a huge role in shaping its quality, balance, and flavor and determines how terroir-driven characteristics come through in the wine.

Philosophically, harvest is both an art and a leap of faith. Professionally, it’s like a high-stakes performance, one that brings an exhilarating energy to the winery. It’s showtime, and there's nothing like it!

DS: Harvest is one of the most magical times. I say ‘magical’ because it has to do with the rebirth of our work. Every year we await new wines, new ideas and new inspiration to be born. Harvest means completion of hard and painstaking work, cultivation of the vineyard.

Harvest is the time when each of us shows our strengths. The winemaker as a general faces each year with an arsenal to combat drought, rainfall, disease. Good vintages, bad vintages, no year is the same, and therein lies all the joy and challenge of a harvest.... But at the end of the harvest a line must be drawn to successfully secure the future of the winery.

SM: The grape harvest represents so many different things, all equally important. As someone who was born and raised here, it is the crowning achievement of our deep connection with the land. It’s the moment when the earth gives  back to us all we have done for it and in same manner.

For example, If we treat the earth well, it gives us good fruit. If we have stressed, mistreated, or otherwise exploited it, the land may dutifully yield a harvest, but with cold and detached mediocre fruit.

For us, making wine is a journey, and harvest represents the halfway point. The land delivers its fruit to us. Simone, the “king of the vineyards” (and my nephew), and Gabriele, the winemaker, embark on the second stretch of the journey, and every journey is an adventure.

Harvest Rituals

ROH: In 2010, I began a harvest ritual at Bedell that goes beyond the technical process and taps into something more spiritual—a deep respect for the environment and the wild yeast that bring our wines to life.

Since 2007, I’ve been fermenting exclusively with wild yeast, a process that brings a unique sense of place into every bottle. While I’ve come to understand the process well, starting white wine fermentations can be a bit tricky. So, to carry this technique out with the greatest chance of success, I use a wine starter culture, much like a sourdough starter in bread baking. Early in the season, we pick a few hundred pounds of grapes before the main harvest begins, allowing this culture to develop for about a week.

To deepen this connection, I host a ceremony and invite everyone in our company to bring something native to our area to add into the starter culture —plants, leaves, rocks, seashells, even water from the Atlantic Ocean, Long Island Sound, and Peconic Bay – the waters that protect our region and have allowed us to develop our wine region.

There’s a sense of reverence in gathering these elements, as though we’re channeling the spirit of the North Fork itself. Each item contributes to the microbial diversity in our culture, grounding the wines in the very environment that nurtures them. For our team, this ritual provides a shared moment of reflection and connection, as each of us has a role in the season’s wines.

Over time, the wines have become not just a reflection of the vintage but a reminder of our bond with the land. It’s a beautiful, almost sacred way to begin each harvest season, and I feel the wines made this way grow more complex, layered, and soulful with each passing year.

The Good, the Bad, and the Unexpected

SM: Harvest is always beautiful. A whirlwind of worry and elation. Fatiguing as it is, just being able to bring our grapes into the winery is immensely satisfying.

That said, we’ve had some ugly episodes. In 2019, a hailstorm destroyed our young parcel of Pinot Noir in just five minutes.

That’s nothing compared to 2023. In June, repeated attacks of Poronospora fungus massacred our vines. Talk about leaving a bitter taste in your mouth. That’s when we realized that nature is a force, at times impossible to reckon with.

DS: 2002 is a year I will never forget. From August 20^th to September 20th, it rained every afternoon in Nemea. Agiorgitiko could not be harvested. In fact, the clusters were left rotting on the vines.

Our only proper harvest happened in the vineyard dedicated to Megas Oenos, our original blend. Thanks to stony soil, the plants remained in relatively good condition. By hand picking the healthy grapes, we were able to produce a small quantity of about 3,000 bottles of moderate quality. At least that’s how it seemed at the time.

15 years later, when we opened a few bottles, we encountered an unexpectedly good wine, which has aged excellently!

Reflections on the 2024 Harvest

ROH: The 2024 harvest has been exceptional—not just for the North Fork, but for New York as a whole. While it hasn’t been the warmest year, it’s been one of the driest and sunniest on record, which is a rare and exciting combination for us.

With almost no rain in September and October, the grapes reached incredible levels of concentration, especially in our Bordeaux reds.

The result is a depth of flavor and aromatic intensity that stands out even among past great vintages. I have no doubt 2024 will be remembered as one of the best vintages the North Fork has ever seen.

SM: Understandably, I’m superstitious. Cold, hard facts: optimal quality and the quantity this year. Fermentation went smoothly. From an analytical standpoint, all good. What can I say? Fingers crossed!! I won’t elaborate, but we’re optimistic.

DS: 2024 was very hot and thus very challenging. We wrapped up the harvest with fewer grapes than expected, but amazing quality. We expect the Nemea reds to be a little scarce, but wonderful.

The white wines seem to be of excellent quality. Slowly but surely, some are almost ready for bottling!

2024 Stand-Outs

When pressed, Dimitris Skouras admits he’s especially thrilled about one wine in particular, Moschofilero, the signature white grape from Mantineia. This is the first year they’ll be producing a Moschofilero Mantinia PDO wine from their own vineyards in a new cellar facility. It’s certainly something to celebrate.

Unsurprising, some wineries had trouble killing their darlings.

ROH: Without question, for 2024, our Sauvignon Blanc and Albariño are really standing out among the whites. Both varietals have developed beautifully this year, showing vibrant flavors and intensity that really reflect the unique conditions of the season.

As for the reds, I’m particularly excited about the Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Sauvignon. These varietals have shown incredible promise in terms of depth and concentration, and I’m looking forward to seeing how they develop in the barrel.

One and Only

If forced to choose one, naturally, Rich’s reply straddles personal taste and pragmatism.

He concedes, I’d have to go with Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a classic varietal that will grow in importance for our region as climate change continues to extend our growing seasons here.

L’Avventura only produces three grape varieties: Passerina del Frusinate for the whites and Cesanese d’Affile for the reds, and a tiny parcel of Pinot Noir, as a passion project.

SM: Every bottle has a story, they’re like our children, each destined to become a distinctive wine. It’s like choosing a favorite child! No parent would ever do so (out loud), even if in their heart they know the answer.

We’ve even named our vineyards after the family members who work with wine:

Gabriella, Marta, Lollo, Giulia, Simone…

Picchiatelli

As long as we’re getting personal, Stefano admits his personal attachment to the Picchiatello label (100% Cesanese). It’s named for an Italian term of endearment used to describe someone who is “a bit quirky or crazy.” He explains, “My childhood friends and I are all picchiatelli. This wine is dedicated to our enduring friendship.”

Speaking of a little crazy…

For Picchiatello, Stefano strongly “requested” his enologist age precisely 75% of the wine in large barrels and leave 25% in steel tanks until bottling. His slightly out-of-the-box directive turned out to be a huge success.

For more information on any of these wineries, get in touch directly, or ask me in the comments.

Cheers!